New York Fashion Week’s first night opened with Harlem Fashion Row’s 14th annual show. The evening began with a series of speeches that celebrated Black designers of the fashion industry and closed with a bang with the star of the night: Charles Harbison’s floor-length gowns, gold fabrics and shined satin.  

This year’s fall season at HFR featured the works of four Black designers whose looks varied greatly in style and theme: Harbison, Shawn Pean, Johnathan Hayden and Tier. Tier alluded to elements of nature through camouflage-patterned streetwear, while June 79, a collection created by Sean Penn, showcased a more professional business attire. June 79’s menswear was nearly indiscernible from its womenswear; nearly all the models were dressed in commanding suits and bombers. June 79 embraced androgyny with his bold womenswear collection: a gray suit paired with bright lip color and combat boots. This season’s designs played with the dark colors of winter and the bright colors of autumn — orange, yellows and pinks. 

Hayden cited his childhood church’s stained glass windows as an influence on his color palette, which embraced bold and warm sunshine hues. Orange dresses paired with red and blue were the highlight of his collection, but they lacked any attempt at the avant-garde: his pieces never strayed far from tradition, lacking an edge that might differentiate them from any other clothing line. Overall, the designers were conservative in how far they ventured into the unknown. Few designs were particularly novel, save for the finale — Harbison’s fall 2021 collection.

Harbison’s collection was the most stunning of the night. Models in flared pants, trains of silver fabric and sheer suits walked down a street in Harlem, which was temporarily converted to a catwalk due to COVID-19. While menswear maintained a more casual look — neutral fabrics, traditional cuts, and simple yet classy shirts and pants ——the womenswear collection was more grungy, with patterned suits of tulle and bold yellows. Makeup looks were intentionally kept to a soft dewy glow; most hairs styled naturally in cornrows. Each piece in the collection stood out, withholding its own character so that even in a stream of models, none were alike. 

This comes as no surprise to those who know Harbison’s work. The New York-based designer’s glamour has caught the eyes of former First Lady Michelle Obama, Beyoncé and Solange. HFR’s brand mission aims for sustainability and to provide a platform for Black designers by hosting yearly competitions that give them a global stage. The competition garnered Harbison the opportunity to partner with Banana Republic, focusing on natural dyes and sustainable fabrics that use less water in the production process. 

As the discourse on racial justice escalated in the past year, individuals and brands have looked inwards to how they can help change existing racial disparities. Many brands at NYFW this year featured more Black designers than ever before. However, HFR knows racial inequity existed years before the Black Lives Matter movement began. HFR isn’t striving to make their brand inclusive because it’s trendy — it’s what they’ve always stood for. 

Contact Lieko Dadaille at [email protected].