Elements of ’80s grunge fashion dominated the runway. Heavily belted shoes or studded bracelets accessorized otherwise calmer looks. Some even wore fake nails that would be better described as talons. There were two clear aesthetics within the collection, and the second was grunges’ polar opposite — peach pastels, elegantly draped fabric and floral patterns that reminded me of my grandma’s couch fought just as hard to be noticed as a leather harness.
Victor de Souza’s Spring/Summer 2025 show brought an edge to the chaos of West 56th Street. Souza describes the collection, “The Rabbit hOle of Style,” as “a voyage through sartorial transformation towards a realm of refined elegance.” True to his reputation, de Souza was perfecting the runway before the show, as he prides himself on being involved in the production process behind his designs. Choosing to unveil his collection in the Consulate General of Argentina was no mistake — de Souza is an Argentinian-born New Yorker. Guests sidestepped the Argentina tourism booth while making their way to the seats. The models’ sharp glare commanded guests’ attention to signal the start of the show, rather than a traditional light change or music track.
The element of surprise worked especially well in this collection. There was a combination of intricately woven florals with chainmail, followed by a corset deliberately left unbuttoned. Each eyelash and nail was placed intentionally, conveying de Souza’s message that artistry combined with craftsmanship creates timeless pieces.
The accessories deserved a show of their own — one model had gems covering her face, another had a small handbag in contrasting colors. De Souza’s footwear leaned heavily towards 2000s trends — models carefully walked past in kitten heels and wedges that were both futuristic and delicate.
A flowing white ball gown with childlike scrawls of bunnies printed atop light chiffon accompanied a studded black leather collar. A white mini dress was adorned with rose sketches down its structured skirt, accompanied with literal metal thorned studs to represent the rose’s thorns. It’s a deliberate message of combining the harsh with the soft, a theme within de Souza’s past work. De Souza seems to be traveling in time, embracing more modern trends compared to his previous Spring/Summer collection, which held Rococo elements.
“My women do evolutions,” de Souza said in a former interview with WSN. “Sometimes I want to show myself more, sometimes I want to dress more demure, that’s how it goes.”
The show combined softer fabrics with harsh silhouettes throughout. While it is an acquired taste, the designer’s slight edge in the collection created a buzz amongst the crowd. De Souza describes himself as someone anti-trend, and his attention to detail brought the collection together, unifying what would have been an otherwise mismanaged show.
Contact Julia Diorio at [email protected].
