Rochambeau F/W 2017

Sophie Shaw

Designers Joshua Cooper and Laurence Chandler’s newest Rochambeau runway show, “Myopia”, was a whirlwind for the senses. Punk music blared while masked figures danced maniacally and darted behind plastic curtains on the opposite side of the runway from the audience. This background performance went on as the models marched out.

Many of the models were also masked — mesh obscured their faces while it revealed their bodies. The masks, which had custom paint drippings running down them from the top, were created in collaboration with artist, musician and composer Mark Mothersbaugh.

Besides masks and mesh, pinstripes and houndstooth made obvious the punk theme. The palette stayed moody, mostly with grays, and pops of bright red, teal and yellow. T-shirts and sweatshirts had a distressed vibe to them, and cord jackets fit oversized. On the bottom, wide leg pants took favor over joggers. A few womenswear looks were included as well, but did not stand out. The collection was as graphically loud as the music was.

Preceding the show, rapper Lil Yachty stopped by after his appearance at the Nautica collection, which was at the neighboring space at Skylight Clarkson Square.

Celebrity appearances aside, Rochambeau’s spectacle was exciting, and fashion always appreciates the avant-garde. There are definitely creative boundaries that have yet to be pushed in menswear, and Rochambeau’s duo is doing so.

Email Sophie Shaw at [email protected]

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