Upbeat music and velvet walls set a celebratory mood for British-Nigerian designer Chuks Collins’ Spring/Summer 2022 collection. Before the presentation, waiters served glasses of champagne and petit hors d’oeuvres, from mini lobster rolls to ratatouille quiche to macarons. The crowd fell silent and the music slowed as the first model walked through the door in a patterned robe.

The show was impressive; the collection used strong and bold jewel tones on African-inspired prints. Collins was inspired by the idea of butterfly cocoons — sources of hope and resurrection. Collins’ message of empowerment and inclusivity was amplified by his decision to diversify the sizes of his models.

“[The collection] is a lot about owning that empowerment and being who we want to be as humanity,” Collins told WSN. “Every day, no matter what happens, we can rise to a matter of challenges … We keep rising.”

The metamorphosis-themed collection stunned with creative cuts and silhouettes. Each look was incredibly detailed, right down to the makeup. Each model wore dark eye makeup dashed with pops of bright color. Intentionally slicked back hair allowed the designer to place emphasis on the designs’ strong tailoring and pleating. To finish each look, the women wore bright shoes, normally red and orange, while the men stuck to dark dress shoes. 

One attendee, Grace Jin, described the presentation as “simultaneously bold and theatrical, while also striking a sense of warmth and intimacy.”

Though Collins has shown jewel tones in the past, this collection highlights the juxtaposition between structured lines and soft, flowing material, as opposed to the large pleats and lace detail that starred in his previous one. 

After the show, Collins anticipated the next stage of his creative transformation. 

“I’m looking forward to what’s next for me as a designer and as an artist,” Collins said. 

Contact Tess Tamar at [email protected].