CHOCHENG was founded in 2010 by designer Cho Cho Cheng. Cheng studied fashion at Parsons School of Design before taking an apprenticeship in London to study traditional British tailoring.

CHOCHENG distinguishes itself through its dedication to sustainability, stating on its website that it only uses materials that are 100% natural and cruelty-free. The brand forbids the use of commercial iron-on interfacing and machine finishing, ensuring that all pieces are handmade. These include intricately detailed shoulder pads, embroidered buttons, inseam buttonholes and decorative silk petals. 

This season’s collection stunned again, utilizing all the elements CHOCHENG is notorious for — its rich color palettes, intricately hand-sewn designs and meticulous attention to detail. The show began with a close-up shot of a bottle labeled “drink me,” sandals, pearls and jewelry that hinted at the pieces that would be presented at the show. 

Cheng lived up to the label’s mission to merge Chinese and British influences. The collection was completed by bold colors, including many rich red hues: an emblem of luck and hope. Models also donned conical hats, platform sandals and handheld fans. While some looks were elegant with carefully tailored silhouettes, there were also bolder outfits, accentuated by their use of shawls and cover-ups. 

However, the use of multiple garments in a single look minimized the power of the pieces. They made weaker impressions when presented together than they each did on their own. The looks with the fewest garment additions stood out the most, while those with multiple layers seemed out of place. 

Contact Anja Westhues at [email protected].