At Ishq, chef Vamshi Adi’s message is clear: Indian food belongs in upscale dining.
Just a 10-minute walk away from Third Avenue North, Ishq is not your typical Indian restaurant. Adi, the founder and executive chef, delivers a modern twist on the Indian culinary experience, inspired by his deep passion for traditional flavors and background as a pastry chef.
Customers at Ishq, which translates to “love” in Hindi, are immediately met with a rose-tinted quartz bar — so long that it serves as an elegant banquet table — and a warm, vibrant atmosphere. From specialty items like oysters to classic curries, Ishq’s menu keeps customers on their toes. The restaurant, which opened in the East Village last month, was recently added to the New York City Michelin Guide, which described its menu as “teeming with ideas” and dishes that contain “all the right levels of spice, heat, depth and nuance.”
For students on a budget, Ishq’s $20 cocktails and $30 entrees make it a place for indulgence. The restaurant offers seven different craft cocktails, each inspired by a different city in India. Take the Jubilee Affair, a drink inspired by Adi’s hometown of Hyderabad, which features housemade Irani chai and rum.
Like many of New York City’s most popular upscale restaurants, the menu boasts a vast selection of small plates, from the sharabi chicken tikka to the lahsooni oysters.
The Sharabi Chicken Tikka arrived stacked on a single, upright skewer, crafting the illusion of floating in the air. The dimly lit dining room was briefly illuminated as the waiter ignited the chicken in a fiery blaze. Tender and charred, the marinated grilled chicken thighs were accompanied by a mint yogurt, balancing the heat with a refreshing tanginess.
While oysters are a rarity on Indian restaurant menus, Adi balances novelty with comfort by incorporating a blend of traditional Indian flavors into his baked oysters. Cooked in chili garlic butter and amul cheese and topped with breadcrumbs of sooji rusk, an Indian biscuit, his commitment to novelty is on full display in these baked bites of joy.
The Ishq Dal-e Khaas, one of Adi’s signature dishes, combines black lentils and black truffles into an earthy, savory delight — and had me using my naan to mop up every last bite. With its colossal portion and enough spice to make steam rise from my ears, the Nalli Ghost Biryani was a challenge only for the brave. The lamb is marinated in bhurani raita — a creamy blend of yogurt and spices from Hyderabad — and served with cashews that add a nice crunch.
My personal favorite of the night was the Dum Ka Ghost, or baby goat curry. Slightly sweet and melt-in-your-mouth tender, the goat arrived at the table in an ornate clay pot. The server carefully pried open the lid, revealing a rich, decadent curry — a fitting spectacle for an outstanding dish. The goat’s slight sweetness was unexpected yet strangely inviting, adding depth to every bite.
Ishq is Adi’s second restaurant in New York City, but his journey to becoming a head chef was far from easy. Adi moved to the United States in 2017 after graduating from the Culinary Academy of India. Faced with limited opportunities as a pastry chef, however, he made the risky choice of broadening his culinary focus by embracing his cultural roots.
“I got an opportunity to work in an Indian restaurant and realized that to grow in the United States, I could represent my own cuisine,” Adi said in an interview with WSN.
When the restaurant where Adi previously worked closed during the pandemic, he decided to open Gazab, his first restaurant, where he could showcase his creativity in a casual dining setting.
“As a pastry chef, we have a unique set of skills — patience, creativity and a drive to think outside the box,” Adi said. “Over time, I started blending that creativity with my savory cooking — I imagine how the dish will come together and just go for it.”
After three years as the executive chef at Gazab, Adi sought to open a restaurant in the East Village — but this time, offering an upscale take on Indian food.
“People are open to fancy Indian restaurants, but a lot of times the authenticity is missing with fusion because they change the ingredients and the process of cooking the food,” Adi said. “I wanted to bring a concept where food is prepared very authentically, and then give that a modern look and presentation.”
Contact Logan Holland at [email protected].
