On a rainy Sunday afternoon, I visited Annisha Garcia’s restaurant, Son Del North — the viral burrito shop that opened in June in the Lower East Side. Employees hollered orders as the line spilled onto the sidewalk and reggaeton beats played from the loudspeakers. I crammed inside, my shoulders squeezed against drenched windbreakers and oversized umbrellas, awaiting my first bite of Garcia’s “no rice, just beans” burrito.
Less than a 10 minute walk from NYU’s Second Street residence hall, Son Del North has become one of New York City’s most viral burrito shops. Unlike most burritos, which are stuffed with filler ingredients such as rice and lettuce, Garcia’s are all about the flavors.
“I’ve never lived in any other city where people get so excited about a line,” Garcia said. “They think something special is happening and you are a part of it.”
On a regular day at the restaurant, Garcia works busily behind the compact counter space, wearing a pair of running shoes, ripped jeans and a crewneck with her jet black hair slicked into a signature low bun — an unassuming look for a two-time “Chopped” champion. Born in Tijuana, Mexico, Garcia began selling burritos at her father’s weekend football games as a teenager, earning some extra cash before culinary school. Now, she does it for a living, serving up what many are calling the best burrito in the city.
While Son Del North is still in its early stages, the long lines are no surprise given its recent rise to social media fame. Living up to the “no rice” promise, Garcia’s burritos — stuffed with creamy Mayocoba beans, fresh avocado and customers’ choice of protein — have won the hearts of many New Yorkers. Wrapped in chewy, flour tortillas imported from Sonora, Mexico, each type of burrito on the menu evokes a unique memory for Garcia. The Frijol con Queso emulates her mother’s burritos, which Garcia would scarf down after school and the grilled onions in the fan-favorite Carne Asada burrito remind her of weekend dinners. But for Garcia, who considers food to be the heart of her community, the restaurant serves a larger purpose.
“All burritos in New York suck,” Garcia said. “They’re meh. People’s knowledge of burritos come from places like Chipotle, and I’m like, ‘Do you really think you know more than me? I grew up with the real dish!’”
An unapologetic representation of Garcia’s northern Mexican heritage, the restaurant is home to a tight-knit community. To her staff, Garcia is the “Mayor of Orchard Street” — she insists on delivering free burritos to fellow business owners, including the teenagers at the chocolate shop next door.
Despite her proud display of bold flavors, Garcia initially was reluctant to become a restaurant owner. She previously worked as a chef in a luxury hotel in Barcelona, and was the chef de cuisine at several New York City restaurants. But after a decade of working in kitchens that had “no ambitions beyond food,” Garcia developed somewhat of a disdain for restaurants.
“I love food, I love people,” the chef said. “But I hate restaurants.” Now though, she’s changing the narrative with a business of her own.
“Food is the best way to get close to people,” Garcia said. “People who have a good relationship with food usually come from good memories with food.”
Contact Olivia Condell at [email protected].