Looking back on the past can be disastrous in fashion. Historical trends ranging from the 1500s neck ruffs to the 2000s velour tracksuits must stay buried deep. Yet, Markarian Spring/Summer 2023 presented a modern take from eras like the Renaissance and the ’80s with its florals, glamour and liveliness.

The show took place at the Ukrainian Institute of America, a fairytale-esque castle setting that matched the historical ambiance of the collection. Attendees were greeted with cocktails before the show and escorted to their seats surrounding an extensive runway comprising of three halls with crystal chandeliers and elegant floral arrangements. 

The first part of the show consisted of models wearing long gowns made out of shiny fabrics and distinct silhouettes that reimagined the classic long gowns from the Renaissance era. This was exactly the case for one of the first looks of the show: an off-the-shoulder white mini dress with metallic gold floral embellishments with two long cape-like trains attached to its back. It was a dress that set the standard for the rest of the collection, showcasing what a modern, eclectic royal would wear.

Throughout the show, the common motif of florals and intricate tailoring fit models with perfectly draped clothes. They looked graceful as they descended wooden stairs and entered the runway.

Many well-known celebrities were in attendance including American actress Maddie Hasson, known for her starring role in the YouTube series “Impulse” and the horror film “Malignant.”

 “This was my first show and I thought it was all so beautiful, I was beaming the whole time,” Hasson said. “I’ve worked with Markarian before, and I loved seeing its signature velvet tie at the waist.”

The trademark Markarian embroidery was a signature look throughout the show, presenting itself in long gowns and blazer sets. The tailoring of this collection’s blazers embodied the ’80s, with one blazer having exquisitely shaped curves at the bottom that separated the bodice from the skirt. 

Candace Bushnell, NYU alum and author of the iconic “Sex and the City” book, journalist and producer, says she’s a regular Markarian show attendee.

“Markarian has something that comes through every season,” Bushnell said. “Of course it’s different designs, different fabrics and different influences but there’s always a certain voice that comes through.”

The show ended with a stunning neon pink off-the-shoulder ball gown dress that effortlessly mixed the loud color pops and ruffles of the ’80s with the elegance of a classic long gown. It’s evident that designer Alexandra O’Neill actualized her knowledge of art history and fashion in order to create this collection that features refined modern twists.

“Markarian is creative, feminine and it’s the type of clothes that you want to wear,” Bushnell said. “Always classic and interesting.”

Contact Camila Ceballos at [email protected]