NewLeaper, a fashion management agency, showcased its greenest designers at this season’s New York Fashion Week. Featured collections included Charlotte Siu’s SISIO “Bipolar” collection, Sani Bai and Hua Ren’s Saint Fleur “Cycle of Life” collection, Qixin Zhang’s r.I.e “WATER” collection and Julian Woodhouse’s WOODHOUSE ARMY “Star Child” collection.

From Zhang’s unique raindrop silhouettes to Shao’s hot pink palettes, the collections were charged with riveting perspectives on fashion. A live performance incorporating Woodhouse’s showcasing of garments is a testament to how these global designers are the next generation of fashion.

NewLeapers’ art direction, courtesy of Woodhouse and show director Dionne Cochrane, embellished a photo-op worthy environment for connoisseurs of fashion at the Spring Studios’ venue. Viewers in open areas could freely chat before and after the show, offering an opportunity for the agency’s mission: seamless networking between the artists and the press. The room was decorated with white benches and white walls, which paired well with the blacklight lighting, enhancing the room’s volume and giving it a slight eeriness.

SISIO’s “Bipolar” collection effectively used color cohesion and movement to establish their presence as the morning’s first featured collection. Siu seemed to pay homage to the late Virgil Abloh with oversized utility belts and trendy patchwork denim, reminiscent of Abloh’s successful blend of streetwear and couture. 

In keeping with SISIO’s mission statement that a happy face and a sad face are meant to be embraced and expressed, especially for women, the flounce of the garments invoked strong images of femininity and vibrancy. However, as each piece was displayed, it became apparent that garments were not properly tailored to the bodies of their respective models. Awkward folds and ruffles slightly drew away from the overall elegance of the collection. Rugged streetwear added balance to the collection. Neutral palette cleansers were integrated at the right times, allowing for pieces like statement hot pink accessories and trousers to have their moment despite the tiny tailoring errors.

Siu’s shy entrance on the runway to enjoy her applause served as a sharp reminder that such skill and innovation came from a fledgling designer and not a big-name house. Fashion Designer and Instagram influencer Aaliyah Jay held high praise for the collection.

“Honestly, it lifted my spirit and it’s exactly what I needed,” Jay said. 

Bai and Ren certainly maintained the hype that followed “Bipolar.” “Cycle of Life,” paid tribute to their Chinese culture by using iconography prints. The deconstructed garments in the collection were wonderfully daring, and the frills, naturally animated pieces as they were displayed down the runway. The collection was surprisingly free of lining, which might have supplemented more structure and a cleaner finish.

Materials like feathers and rope are rarely used in collections, but they added depth and texture throughout the “Cycle of Life.” The untraditional materials blended well with the earthy tones and the loose silhouettes, juxtaposing the soft atmosphere created by accessories such as kitten heels and beachy hairstyles. The coup de grâce of the show was the two-person denim top with identical models. The unorthodox garment, presented in a beautiful and aesthetically satiating manner, rightfully earned a standing ovation. 

“I didn’t expect to see fashion that was so different,” model and performer for the “Star Child” Collection Jah’Meek Williams said. “Fashion has overall opened up my mind and made my job so unique.”

That uniqueness is continued in other featured collections like r.I.e. Zhang’s brand proved that sustainable fashion can and does look good. Though not as colorfully diverse as traditional spring and summer collections, “WATER” focused on their graceful garments to have water-like movement. The devotion to the theme was enthralling, with the models using shoes as accessories, holding them while they walked barefoot across the runway. Several garments had raindrop protrusions, paired with woven sandals. The garments’ simplicity was mildly disappointing, but is understandably attributed to how incorporating other fabrics and embellishments can be wasteful and contradictory to the brand’s emphasis on sustainability. The layering of cutout pieces and crochet bags were noteworthy inclusions to the collection and only heightened the experience. 

“The pieces were so unique and I would definitely like to have it in my closet,” Instagram fashion blogger Bessem Ebott said.

The event concluded with WOODHOUSE’s “Star Child” collection, a new line of performance wear. Assless chaps, sheer material and crisscrossed tops celebrated the human body. Despite the raciness and lack of elasticity in the ivory, gold, white and green fabric, it was clear that the models felt comfortable in their garments while completing their daring maneuvers. While a singer performed, they effectively showcased the small collection’s purpose by voguing and shimmying around the runway. Their energy was infectious and got people out of their seats.

“It was beautiful,” stylist Mason Lyle said.

NewLeaper brought an audience together and reignited every fashion lover’s passion for the art. These designers proved that creativity can completely break the mold in a transformative celebration of originality. The management agency rose to the challenge of diversifying the industry and will undoubtedly continue to nurture fashion innovators.

Contact Anthony Offiah at [email protected].