At Son Jung Wan’s Spring/Summer 2018 show, stiff collars and structured skirts collided with ethereal, fluttery fabrics. Known for capturing the dual nature of women’s clothing, she explores the juxtaposition of provocative and feminine silhouettes and fabrics. Her collection featured bright, pop art colors like turquoise, fuchsias, bright blues and glittery embellishment, as well more subdued taupes and pinks.  She used contrasting fabrics such as reflective latex and lace in the same piece to further emphasize this duality.

A low-cut turquoise dress with a fuchsia floral pattern opened the show, accompanied by bubbly French pop music. Each piece was highly structured, reminiscent of traditionally masculine styles with traditionally feminine fluttery sleeves and translucent fabrics.. Scattered into the collection were beautiful, lacy,  muted pieces with contrasting high collars and pantsuit styles. A particularly notable piece was a white bodysuit layered with an ankle-length robe that had gorgeous and painstakingly intricate floral appliques in a gauzy, see-through fabric.

The menswear versions of each pattern also interestingly showed the intersection of traditionally feminine and masculine styles. Wan’s collection could be seen as androgynous with a simultaneously heterogenous mixture of gauzy and structured components.

Each of Son Jung Wan’s pieces contradicted itself with structured components and delicate, sheer textures. This was also reflected in the hair and makeup. A structured braid contrasted with an intentionally disheveled ponytail and bold navy blue glitter eyeliner contrasted with natural skin and lip colors mirroring the pieces themselves.

The collection suggests that fashion is shifting towards androgyny and less gendered clothing styles. This collection also demonstrates Son Jung Wan’s ability to constantly create stunning, intricate and innovative pieces season after season.

Email Mayu Ranganathan at [email protected].