Rubin & Chapelle F/W 2017

Paloma Deinum-Buck

Located in a walk-up in the middle of Chelsea, Rubin & Chapelle’s presentation room embodied the brand’s sophisticated style. Large windows covered the walls, displaying the New York City skyline, while concrete floors and luminescent lights created a simplistic, yet elegant atmosphere.

The collection mirrored the silhouettes of previous collections, while the use of prints inspired by the geometric shape of the skyline, along with sunburst and accordion pleats, added to the individuality of each piece. While the majority of the collection consisted of neutral colors and simple shapes, the addition of engineered prints and colors such as tangerine, scarlet and purple drew the eye in, revealing the details of the pieces.

The aesthetic inspiration of the 1920s was apparent throughout the collection, demonstrated through the drop waist dresses, demure backless designs and the use of washed satin. A backless satin dress with accordion pleats down the back of the skirt showed a unique twist off of the ’20s style, complete with an almost Marilyn Monroe-type draping. Similarly, the gold satin dress with the sash scarf showed an alternative take on the vintage look, highlighting the demure and tasteful sexiness of the piece.

Although each piece shared similar silhouettes and fabrics, the real attention-grabbing aspect was one of the engineered prints that encompassed the brightest colors of the collection — scarlet, purple, grey and tangerine. Unlike the rest of the colors or prints in the collection, this pattern was not only bright and interesting to look at, but it was versatile and exciting, appearing in the form of multiple dresses and a pant and jacket combination.

Overall, designers Sonja Rubin & Kip Chapelle achieved their desired goal of a soft collection, one that was inspired by the ever changing structure and construct of the city. Their use of geometric prints, bright colors and demure silhouettes resulted in the perfect combination of soft and structured, bright and modest and a collection that is ready to wear.

Email Paloma Deinum-Buck at [email protected]

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