Masculinity molded Matiere’s Fall/Winter 2017 collection. The looks, unembellished and practical (aside from a pair of plaid wool cargo shorts), maintained a strong sense of identity. The utilization of plaid throughout the collection underscored co-founders Scot Shandalove and H. Choi’s ‘70s punk rock inspiration. Each model also wore Dr. Martens as another nod to punk.
The presentation comprised of 11 looks, sported by models with commanding stares. A few models were seated on intricately carved arm chairs, smugly leaning back and regarding the audience as if they were his subjects. It was refreshing to see the models interacting with and reacting to the audience and each other.
One of the seated men modeled the most intriguing ensemble of the collection — a double breasted brown plaid coat with a fur collar paired with a black and red plaid pullover and dark plaid wool cargo shorts. The remainder of his legs were covered with tights.
Other looks stuck to boxy but tailored silhouettes, like a black and red windowpane plaid short sleeve button down worn with tan straight-leg corduroys.
Matiere, French for “material”, is defined by its utilization of quality textiles. Japanese, Italian and Portuguese yarns were outfitted into variations of plaid wools, cottons and knits. Most stuck to a black, red and brown color scheme, to emphasize the punk influence. The collection was by no means radical, but it did successfully evoke the rebellious era.
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