Bibhu Mohapatra S/S 2017

Grace Halio, Deputy Managing Editor

The electronic beats of M.I.A.’s Bird Song resounded through The Dock at Skylight at Moynihan Station for Bibhu Mohapatra’s Spring/Summer 2017 show this afternoon. The Indian designer unveiled a collection inspired by pre-war Parisian vibes. 20th century looks recived a modern, glam update.

Standout pieces included a sleek black and white striped sleeveless trench coat, an ultra shimmery paneled dress and a pale pink number with delicate red sequin and pearl embroidery resembling cherry blossoms. Feathery accents and intricate pearl beading graced many of the garments, showcasing the designer’s craftsmanship. Though there were classic creams and pale pinks, Mohapatra wasn’t afraid to play with vibrant colors — there were energetic reds, rich purples and radiant mosaic motifs seen in many of his designs.

Mohapatra played with shape and texture — looks had soft draping and flowing sheer fabrics, which were juxtaposed by boxier, more structured layers. The luscious velvets, satins and crepes set the stage for a perfect marriage of fancy, feminine contours and modern-day silhouettes. Four or five models at a time sported cohesive looks in the same color family.

The sophisticated ensembles were multilayered, speaking volumes about his vintage French femme inspiration. The designer described his inspiration as “the hidden identities” of these women.

Models donned edgy open-toed Louboutins, bright lips and relaxed, wavy hairstyles. Mohapatra succeeded at debuting a collection that captured the essence of pre-war Parisian style: iconic, playful and elegant.

Email Grace Halio at [email protected].