In its first fashion week devoted solely to menswear, New York offered a warm welcome to true progress in the world of style for men. From androgynous designs to the return of the crew sock, New York Fashion Week: Men’s was a true hit.
By far one of the most stunning collections was none other than Calvin Klein. Italo Zucchelli’s ability to add Italian craftsmanship into a classic American brand was undoubtedly present in vintage denim jackets updated in reconstructed forms of stone-washed jacquard as well as white and beige outerwear tinkered with detachable velcro pockets.
Public School presented a concept that addressed themes designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne tackled in the past, such as police brutality and racial tension. Presented in a jailhouse atmosphere, the collection embraced the freedom of the monochrome in sporty luxewear in a neutral palette of black, white and navy.
New York Men’s Day standouts included Boyswear, CWST and Fingers Crossed. Each held its own in the world of masculine dressing while others toyed a bit further into the acceptance of androgyny and femininity in the ever-changing style of men.
Boyswear’s designer Jackson McKeehan accurately portrayed two completely different families — the Mansons and the Von Trapps — in a melange of grotesquely bright looks that walked the line of 1960s cult culture and lonely Austrian goatherd chic. Culottes and peasant tops stole the show. David Hart played with a melange of colors in his Bauhaus inspired season. Architectural flair was evident in front-pleated shorts flanked with an asymmetrical half-cut flap detail.
CWST’s earthy color scheme of stormy navies, whites and blacks cooled down the tone of the collection, centralizing focus on texture. Cardigans with frayed stitching fell over alternating woven shirt dresses for a new take on layering. Topped with a crew sock, the street chic brand was minimalistic and fresh.
Fingers Crossed was another of the week’s most interesting and successful collections with an ahead-of-its-time look into the future of style in all its androgyny and street cred. Oversized chiffon robes and tees were layered beneath sporty loungewear pants in vibrant shades of blue, yellow, and red. Each feminine look also featured an equally androgynous model who embodied a sexy mix of genders. Culottes in baggy silhouettes paired well with slouchy blazers and silk scarves that referenced playful sun graphics. Once again topped with a crew sock, this season was an absolute hit.
The overall embracing of androgyny is something the world of menswear is growing into. Now reaching a level of street attainability, this splash of femininity is something to be seen not only in the world of the avant-garde but also in next season’s greatest looks.
A version of this article appeared in the Saturday, August 29, print edition. Email them at [email protected]