Men’s fashion takes center stage

Rachel Kaplan

The menswear presented at a show by Ricardo Seco this past New York Fashion Week.

Victor Leonard, Contributing Writer

The traditional ideas of masculinity and gender in fashion are changing. Menswear has found itself at the forefront of fashion this year, with men’s looks appearing in traditionally feminine labels, and with the long awaited announcement of a menswear only fashion week.

With the new emphasis on menswear in fashion, New York has finally adopted a Men’s Fashion Week. A biannual event, New York Fashion Week: Men’s will debut Spring 2016 on July 13 through 16. Held at Skylight Clarkson Square in SoHo, this event will be independent from NYFW. However, the shortness of this event shows that menswear in fashion has not yet garnered too much attention. The bold choices of menswear in high fashion influences how the world perceives notions of masculinity and defines gender roles based upon clothing. This is something that cannot be celebrated during a three-day event.

Amid a conventionally feminine fashion scene, menswear has only recently been brought into in the public eye, with new designers, such as Hood By Air, KTZ, and Patrik Ervell, placing a new lens on men’s street style and couture, as well as pushing the boundaries of what is acceptable for men to wear. In their FW15 collection, Hood By Air, a provocative menswear label, featured men in skirts, dresses and other styles usually seen within the womenswear category. Designers like these challenge societal views on fashion and what defines concepts of menswear and womenswear through an unconventional approach.

Womenswear has also incorporated menswear cuts and silhouettes in their designs, with a sharp focus on suiting and structured tops. In the Tokyo Runway Meets New York show, designer Double Standard Clothing #NERO placed emphasis on the power that menswear adapted for women can bring. Models clad in open suit jackets, pantsuits and sharply cut dresses owned the runway, showcasing the influence of menswear on the collection. In the same show, designer MASTERMIND featured a model in a navy double-breasted pinstripe suit and heels, sandwiched between two male looks, suggesting that this woman’s look stands equal with any man’s.

High fashion menswear has played an integral role in the alteration of how we view clothing in relation to gender, and this interplay continues to evolve today. Young men are taking more risks in outfit choices, pairing pieces that feature feminine colors and prints with more masculine pieces like blazers and suits. In time, the way we view gender through outer appearance will warp completely.

A version of this article appeared in the Wednesday, Feb. 25 print edition.  Email Victor Leonard at [email protected]