Monique Lhuillier’s Spring 2015 collection did not deviate from her typical aesthetic, but found its strength in the accessibility, hidden complexness and emotional capacity of the looks.
Featuring a soft color palette and simple styling, Lhuillier made bolder choices in textiles, leaning heavily on iridescents, tulle, lace and even horsehair. The floral details of the textiles made the looks relevant and covetable, and with each further turn the details of the look, from piping to gradient sparkles.
While Lhuillier played with sheers and mesh, the silhouettes featuring them were safe, and most of the silhouettes in the show were familiar, regardless of the textiles used. These silhouettes: column gowns, fitted bodices and a-line tea-length skirts, and belted, fitted separates, found strength in their softness and comfort in their standardness. The silhouettes floated the fine line between runway, especially a long mesh “tunic” and a gown whose back mimicked a deconstructed bow, and looks that were envisionable from the audience as being luxurious yet wearable.
For those more familiar with Lhuillier’s bridal looks, moments alluded to this, especially two evening gowns in the later portion of the show. Iridescents that could have verged on off-putting worked well in the pieces that featured them, and the simple iridescent pearl runway further pushed the warm tones of the clothes.
Lhuillier’s show did not shock, but it did wow. When iridescent confetti petals fell from the ceiling as the show’s gowns walked, the audience exhaled a collective breath of wonder. The pieces’ blatant beauty were beautiful in part because of their directness. Joy is obtained from gazing at, and desiring to wear beautiful clothes that one imagines would make them feel beautiful while wearing. Lhuillier doesn’t provide an escape or a surprise, but her clothes captivate because of their uninhibited genuineness — both in aesthetic and emotional directness.
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