Metallic fabrics, silver and gunmetal, raised collars and geometric cuts only mean one thing: futuristic. That was the theme of Katya Leonovich’s Fall 2014 collection, which was showcased at Lincoln Center. The mood was set by four surrounding black walls with dim blue lighting on the multidirectional runway and music by Michael Magnan.
The show kicked off with a model wearing an aqua metallic deep-V party dress, which had three asymmetrical cuts below the waist, complimented by a silver necklace. The models walked down the runway in sharp metallic colors, mostly silver, bronze and gunmetal. The collection included geometrically designed dresses, coats and evening gowns. The designs ranged from shimmer to sheer, and from cocktail dresses to bubble dresses, eloquently combining glamour to the futuristic inspiration.
In a pre-show interview backstage, Katya Leonovich seemed very calm and relaxed just minutes before the show. Leonovich stressed that this collection is still glamorous, but has a stronger image due to the use of metallic textiles.
“Mostly this time was materials and the fabrics that gave me more ideas. I used metallic fabrics from big sporty companies and I put a bit more glamour to it,” Leonovich said.
Leonovich also used a new woven fabric done in her laboratory that is exclusively hers, and not sold anywhere else.
The inspiration for the Fall 2014 collection was based on movies that Leonovich has viewed and admired. One inspiration was Sienna Miller’s look in “Factory Girl.”
“It’s very ’60s, and even in another century. I thought, ‘OK, let’s see where this goes and see how it will be like 100 years after,’” Leonovich said.
Leonovich explained that it was a fun switch up from last season’s collection. The trick behind this collection, and many of the metallic trench coats, was playing around with new silhouettes, using an A-line silhouette and bubble silhouettes.
“When it comes to design and sketching, things are changing, but I try not to go too far off, but to just keep the same lines through all the collection,” Leonovich said.
Lead hair director, Moiz Alladina, who did Leonovich’s show last year as well, said all the models are sporting the same hair style, a futuristic French twist.
“She has lots of geometry in the clothing, and it’s also very organic,” Alladina said.
The hair had a basic futuristic look in the cut, rather than in the style, which had a natural look in the front.
“We are curling the hair very tight and brushing it out, so it gives it that very organic texture, then pinning it up,” Alladina said.
The makeup for the show was done by Mizu, makeup director for Maybelline New York. All products were from Maybelline, using silver, sky blue, and green colors, which a light green eyeliner underneath, and a natural beige skin tone. Mizu said this look is “easy to do if you know the texture and shape.”
Before the show, model Barbara Vasle, described backstage as filled with adrenaline.
“Everything has to be perfect. It kind of gives you this positive energy to go on stage,” Vasle said.
This was her first time walking for Katya Leonovich and she seemed calm but very excited.
“My hair and makeup and outfit look amazing, all I have to do is rock it!”
Vasle later was the fifth model walking down the runway, “rocking” an iridescent pewter coat.
Caroline Aghajanian is a contributing writer. Email her at [email protected]