The Lower East Side is far from a seaside escape, but sitting underneath Vallarta Tropical NYC’s thatched roof surrounded by intricate ceramic tiles will make you feel like you’re on summer vacation. The intimate seafood restaurant and bar in the Lower East Side pays tribute to Puerto Vallarta — a resort town on Mexico’s western coast in the state of Jalisco, known for its picturesque beaches and diverse marine life.
The eclectic bar, which opened last November, is the sister restaurant of Mexican hotspot La Contenta Oeste next door. Now, restaurant founders Rigoberto Cervantes, Rafael Cervantes and Alex Valencia are expanding their repertoire with Vallarta Tropical’s coastal cuisine, blending Jalisco’s lesser-known dishes with a welcoming and vibrant atmosphere.
Valencia, who is also the restaurant’s bartender and has been a mixologist for almost 20 years, centers Vallarta Tropical’s drink menu around the flavors of Puerto Vallarta. Many of the bar’s drinks feature tequila, mezcal and tepache, a fermented liquor made from the peel and rinds of pineapple. Valencia’s knack for combining refreshment with bold flavors shines through the $20 Vallarta Lady — a bright cocktail with Mexican Angostura bitters and freshly squeezed lime juice, which balanced the tequila well and made for a refreshing, citrusy sip. The restaurant also offers a zero-proof margarita and paloma, both of which use non-alcoholic tequila.
About half of Vallarta Tropical’s menu consists of small plates called “para empezar,” or “to start.” The $18 Tostada Ceviche de Camaron — shrimp, cucumber, tomato, serrano pepper, onion and avocado on a warm, crispy tortilla — came in two easily shareable portions. Each juicy, tangy bite of shrimp honored the restaurant’s tropical theme, while the serrano pepper complemented the dish’s acidity and freshness with a subtle kick.
The $20 Aguachile Vallarta, one of executive chef Manuel Quintero’s signature dishes, is native to the northwestern region of Mexico. The appetizer was both spicy and sweet, featuring six raw shrimp steeped in a spiced broth, paired with slices of onion and pineapple. While the pineapple chunks balanced the tartness of the broth and the shrimp’s fresh flavor, the dish was a bit simplistic and underwhelming for its price. Still, each bite was crunchy and juicy, and the flavorful broth left me wishing for some bread to sop it all up.
While many customers come to Vallarta Tropical for the drinks, its entrees were the standouts. The $28 Chile Relleno de Seafood plate was hearty and well-balanced, featuring a massive, crunchy poblano pepper topped with melted cotija cheese and overflowing with a combination of crabmeat, shrimp and calamari. The pepper sat on top of a thick type of masa often used in the Mexican dish tlacoyo, paired with a creamy orange bean puree that balanced out the rich blend of seafood and smoky pepper tastes.
While I was stuffed by the time dessert arrived, the restaurant’s fluffy Tres Leches Pulque was irresistible. Pulque wine gave hints of smoky bourbon to the cake, whose flavors of vanilla and cinnamon were sweet and light. Vallarta Tropical might be too expensive for a casual night out — but its vibrant atmosphere is a great setting for an introduction to one of the lesser-known sides of Mexican cuisine.
Contact Jonathan Mak at [email protected].
