Just picture this: fluffy, fresh-out-of-the-oven artisanal bread, French patisserie and proprietary blend pour-over coffee. That, among other heavenly delights, captures the heart of Heritage Grand Bakery — and the best part is that you don’t need to leave Manhattan to visit this European oasis.
Located right across from the New York Public Library in Bryant Park, Heritage Grand, alongside its attached restaurant and pizza bar, opened in 2022 aiming to unite several culinary doyens. Lou Ramirez, one of its founders, also co-founded the French bakery chain Maison Kayser and is the former president of Le Pain Quotidien, one of the largest international chains of French-inspired bakeries.
Fety Rahayu, the bakery’s manager, has also worked for Le Pain Quotidien and has been with Heritage Grand since it opened two years ago.
All this experience clearly pays off. Despite juggling bakery management responsibilities behind the counter, handling all grab-and-go orders for baked goods and having to adapt to Heritage Grand’s ever-evolving menu, Rahayu isn’t phased.
“It’s my passion,” Rahayu said. “I’m familiar with the take-out food items, as well as the breads and baked goods, so it’s pretty easy for me.”
Heritage Grand is exceptional for their meticulous attention to detail. Every aspect of the bakery and attached Mediterranean-inspired restaurant has been carefully considered, from the ingredients that go into the food to the furniture.
A particular point of pride for the brand is its use of ancient grain varieties to make their flour — which they grind themselves with their own on-site mill — just behind the bakery’s customer seating counters.
In keeping with the fall spirit, I tried two of Heritage Grand’s seasonal items: their pumpkin spice tart and apple tart.
The pumpkin spice tart is a no-frills puff pastry shell filled with pumpkin puree, topped with cream and a few pumpkin seeds for garnish. The filling lets the squash flavor dominate, and the cream on top has hints of cinnamon and nutmeg.
The apple tart — covered in apple slices and topped with a dusting of cinnamon — sported a soft, moist layer of puff pastry filled with a thin coating of gelatin. If you love the tangy and nostalgic flavor of spiced apples and prefer desserts with a clean, naturally sweetened flavor profile, this is the tart for you.
Savory treats were also on the menu. The Hudson Valley Sourdough had a springy and slightly wet crumb and crackly crust. The olive bread struck a pleasant balance between the milder, briny Kalamata olives and the tangy green Castelvetrano olives baked into the sourdough.
The winner, though, was the Cumin Cheese Stick. The melted Gruyere on top formed a satisfying cheese crisp around the edges, and the inclusion of what tasted like fennel seeds added an exotic punch to the spice blend.
Their raspberry lemon danish, while sporting a flaky, slightly almond-flavored croissant base, was missing the semblance of lemon, and the raspberries on top lacked the piquant tartness of in-season raspberries to make up for the lack of lemon.
I also had my first “cruffin,” which is just your classic croissant in the shape of a muffin and stuffed with filling. My pistachio cruffin was topped with soft pieces of roasted pistachio and a sprinkling of granulated sugar. I appreciated the sweetness and texture of the sugar added, and the generous portion of filling was smooth and nutty.
For those who like subtle, not-too-sweet flavor profiles, the pistachio cruffin is for you. However, if you prefer your sweets with richer flavors, I would suggest trying the chocolate or vanilla cruffins instead.
To wash down these sweets, I tried the bakery’s take on the fall classic pumpkin spice latte. My latte came out frothy, cinnamon-forward and had a respectable coffee-to-milk ratio that toed the line, appealing to both strong coffee and creamy latte lovers alike.
Heritage Grand clearly likes to follow a unique approach, whether it be its decor or baked goods. Like their neutral-toned furniture and Old World-inspired aesthetic, their flavor profiles are subtle and classic. While I was not wowed by every item I tried, I left with my desire for pastry sated.
If you find yourself on Fifth Avenue and 40th Street craving something more artisanal than the offerings of Bryant Park’s bustling holiday market, Heritage Grand is worth a visit.
Contact Ilana Lindquist at [email protected].