In many ways, St. Marks Place — the portion of Eighth Street in between the Bowery and Avenue A — is the East Village’s cultural history condensed into a strip. St. Marks drew in the East Village’s large immigrant population during the late 19th century, and became a bohemian haven throughout the 20th century — the Beatniks, hippies and punk artists have each made their mark on the street. Ever since tour buses added a stop there in the 1960s, St. Marks has become a popular destination for something else besides counter-culture: dining.
Little Kirin
81 St. Marks Place
If you’re in need of a rich and hearty meal but not looking to break the bank this early in the semester, head to Little Kirin — an innovative yet modest establishment with Vietnamese-style sandwiches, rice bowls and salads.
We were first drawn to Little Kirin for The Pho Sandwich, which earned a spot on The New York Times’ list of “57 Sandwiches That Define New York City” this summer. It was exactly what we dreamed of — as you dip your sandwich into the pho broth, the bread soaks up the warmth of the soup, leaving you with the shattering crunch of baguette, onion and jalapeño.
However, it was Little Kirin’s Pho Bowl that we were left dreaming about.
Each bowl is filled with slow-braised beef, white rice and other garnishes dressed in hoisin sauce — its sweetness cuts through the pungence of the onions without overshadowing the beef’s earthy notes. We recommend breaking down the large chunks of braised brisket and getting a bit of everything in each bite. The scallions, jalapeño slices, tender brisket, cilantro and Thai basil creates a true symphony of Vietnamese flavors. The Pho Sandwich and The Pho Bowl are both $18.49 — but the latter gives you more bang for your buck. This, plus the convenience of takeout, cements Little Kirin on our list.
Birria LES St. Marks Place
34 St. Marks Place
Birria LES is our spot for quick bites or appetizers before a long night out. The Tijuana taco spot also features other Mexican street food classics, including tostadas, mulitas and esquites.
Our favorite tacos were the $6.50 Surf and Turf and the $4.50 Chicken Birria — the former stuffed generously with shrimp and beef, the latter a tangy, savory flavor bomb. Streams of birria juice dripped down our palms, but have no fear: Birria LES serves each taco with two tortillas — one for your first bites, and a second for fallen fillings.
This Birria LES location also offers Mexican takes on dishes you don’t often see on a taco joint’s menu, including Birria Dumplings, Birria Sliders and Loaded Papas, recommended to us at the counter. But no matter what you order, don’t skimp on the consomé, and dunk whatever you order into it. Taco, dumpling, slider — we don’t care. Even a slice of flan if that’s your style.
N25 Nitro Tea
27 St. Marks Place
Small, minimalist and brightly lit, N25 is one of the newest shops on the block with high quality Asian refreshments. For $8.50, its signature Shingen Jelly Passion Fruit Tea is a strong balance of herbal, citrus and sweet flavors.
If you ever find yourself on St. Marks during the day, make sure to order one of N25’s special coffees. The Ube and Pandan-Coconut Vietnamese Coffees, which carry an intensity we so rarely come across with these flavors, have our stamp of approval.
The Lions Bar & Grill
132 First Ave.
The Lions Bar & Grill is the ideal walk-in, sit-down restaurant and a great option if you’re craving something casual — especially a classic, old-fashioned burger. With grilled onions and American cheese for the perfect gooey melt, this hamburger has no tricks up its sleeve — but The Lions takes its patties up a notch with a dry-aged beef blend ground daily.
With a toasted sesame bun and a warm aroma of butter, cheese and beef, this burger is a full-fledged journey for the senses. It was a little messy to eat, with little bits of onions falling and beef juices dripping onto our plates from the succulent medium-rare patty, but that’s the experience you pay for when you order a burger like this. While you’re here, be sure to try the fried mozzarella triangles for the perfect cheese pull.
CheLi
19 St. Marks Place
Perhaps the most notorious name on this list is CheLi — trust us when we say that it’s worth a visit. Our favorite Chinese restaurant in New York City, CheLi’s dark curtains and hanging paper lanterns set the scene for its elevated Shanghainese menu. The restaurant’s wooden frames and rooftops create an intimate, canopy-style space for each table.
The stir-fried string beans and xiao long bao — soup dumplings — are solid, but CheLi’s true stand-outs allow diners to venture deeper into the cuisine of China’s Jiangnan region. The wine-soaked chicken appetizer was a promising start to our feast — delightfully refreshing in flavor and springy in texture. While the chicken is an Eastern Chinese classic, some of CheLi’s mains surprised us with their innovation: The Longjing Shrimp arrived at the table in a bowl overflowing with dry ice, and Qianglong’s favorite eel came Peking-duck style with a side of shredded cucumber, green onion and thin pancake sheets. Plus, CheLi’s entrée portion sizes are as large as its flavors.
Without a reservation, be prepared to wait in line — and, in any case, be ready to spend some money — but if you’re going to St. Marks to splurge, CheLi is the spot to do it.
Contact Amy Song and Sydney Poser at [email protected].