In my family, arroz con gandules always stirs up fond memories. When my abuelita would cook this dish — spiced, aromatic rice with pigeon peas —  it was always a showstopper at family dinners. Siblings would fight over the last scoops of the rice filled with tangy green olives, pimento peppers and pigeon peas that were bursting with flavor. To me, arroz con gandules is more than just a recipe I look forward to every holiday — it’s a symbol of familial comfort and belonging, and a representation of my rich Puerto Rican ancestry.

This dish’s roots can be traced back to the 16th century, when the indigenous Taíno people cultivated various beans and grains — including rice, which was introduced to the Caribbean by Spanish colonizers. The incorporation of pigeon peas into the dish reflects both African and Spanish influences. These cultures brought their culinary practices and ingredients to the island, making arroz con gandules Puerto Rico’s national dish today. 

My favorite part of the arroz con gandules is pegao — the crunchy rice at the bottom of the pot, which, in my opinion, holds the most flavor and texture. My abuelita would slightly brown the grains of rice at the bottom of the pot to create a crunchy crust. However, there’s a fine line between burning the rice and creating a flavourful pegao — a skill she has perfected over many years. She fondly tells the story of her children, especially my dad, stealing the pegao from the bottom of her cast iron pot. This Hispanic Heritage Month, she shares her recipe with others, alongside the Puerto Rican traditions it embodies. While arroz con gandules typically contains pork, this recipe is vegetarian.

Ingredients: 

• 3 cups medium or long grain white rice
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 4-6 cups water
• 2 heaping tablespoons sofrito*
• 4 oz canned tomato sauce
• 1 can pigeon peas (gandules)*, partially drained (15 oz)
• 2 heaping tablespoons green olive and pimento pepper mixture (alcaparrado)*  
• 1 seasoning packet of sazón with achiote* 
• 1 teaspoon adobo seasoning*
• 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/8 teaspoon ground oregano
• Salt and pepper to taste  

*Sofrito, gandules, alcaparrado, adobo and sazón with achiote can be found in the international sections of grocery stores or in Spanish bodegas. Brands such as Goya Foods offer a range of ingredients often used in Hispanic cooking.

Instructions:

1. Rinse rice thoroughly in water and set aside.
2. In a medium or large pot heat oil and sauté sofrito until softened. Add tomato sauce and let simmer for 2 minutes.
3. Stir in gandules, alcaparrado, all of the spices and 4 cups of water. Taste carefully and add additional salt if needed, 1 teaspoon at a time. The broth should taste heavily seasoned and slightly salty.
4. Bring to a rapid boil, then add rice and stir. If needed, add more water to raise the water level to at least 1 inch above the rice. Reduce heat to a soft boil and let most of the liquid absorb and evaporate, stirring occasionally, very gently.
5. Carefully mound the rice towards the center of the pot. Cover the top of the pot with foil and cover with a lid. Reduce heat to simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Fold the rice from the bottom up, but do not disturb the bottom of the pan. Cook for another 20 minutes and check if rice is tender and cooked. If needed, keep on the stove for another 10 minutes.

Contact Maya Santiago at [email protected].