Less than half a mile away from Washington Square Park, Casa Bond is a hidden gem. The restaurant honors the Mexican roots of chef Rodrigo Abrajan, who first started selling street tacos in New York City over 30 years ago. Set in a modern space complete with dim lighting, vibrant wall art and upbeat lo-fi music, Casa Bond now features a Valentine’s Day special: an unforgettable $150 five-course meal.
The night begins with an Amuse-bouche, a bite-sized starter that packs a punch. The blue corn sope — similar to a tortilla, but thicker — is topped with Ossetra caviar, cured salmon and a delicate dollop of creme fraiche. Light and pillowy, the sope isn’t just a vehicle — it’s also the star of the dish, made in-house and packed with corn flavor.
The menu’s first course offers Abrajan’s twist on two classics — diners can choose either the Caesar Salad or Crema de Langosta, also known as lobster bisque. The caesar salad is fresh and crisp with its traditional cheesy dressing and sprinkling of parmesan. The two-cheese bread croutons took on a French-fry-like appearance — an innovative addition to the classic starter. While the bisque is slightly grainy, the pieces of lobster and crispy leeks create a balance of both texture and strong seafood flavor.
The menu’s middle course boasts one of the best bites of the night — the tacos Gobernador. Casa Bond replaces the traditional corn tortilla with a milder, house-made flour version, allowing its ingredients to shine — many of which the restaurant sources from Mexico. In true surf-and-turf fashion, this shrimp and steak taco is rounded out with Chihuahua cheese and a chile de árbol salsa. The steak was a true highlight of the meal, consistently medium rare and cut into bite-sized cubes. The dish typically comes with two tacos, but you’ll be craving a third.
The first of the three options in Casa Bond’s main course is the Filete Miñon. The name is a play on the dish’s main ingredient, filet mignon, which is wrapped in a Mexican cheese crepe. The meat itself is standard, but the crepe’s delicate texture is refreshing and, quite literally, food for thought. Beneath the filet is a delightfully savory chili demi-glace, providing much-needed umami and salty goodness. I would have preferred the heirloom carrots to be roasted, but the grilled white asparagus, sauteed mushrooms and blistered sweet pearl onions were beautiful accompaniments.
The Langosta & Langostinos entree is perfect for those who prefer seafood. The Maine lobster could use a little more salt, but still comes with flavorful prawns resting on a bed of pesto pasta — Casa Bond’s version of it, that is. Don’t let its classic presentation fool you: the pasta is fideo seco, a Mexican dish that features lightly toasted noodles for a drier finish. As a self-proclaimed al dente pasta lover, I enjoyed the fideo seco’s unique texture. The pesto — a cilantro, parsley and tomatillo green sauce — was herbaceous and bright, perhaps the entree’s most notable flavor punch.
The menu’s third main course option is Lubina Negra, a dish highlighted by its black sea bass. It is served with a delicious habanero honey butter squash and a creamy beurre blanc sauce.
Casa Bond saves its most avant-garde course for last. Pastry chefs Erica Huertas and Daniella Castro specialize in molecular gastronomy. The Mi Corazón dessert is a quaint heart-shaped pastry filled with fruit and white chocolate. While it was unavailable for me to try, I did taste a Mexican tres leches cake worthy of a second visit. Mi Corazón will be featured along with the rest of the prix-fixe menu starting on Feb. 14.
For Valentine’s Day and beyond, Casa Bond offers a dining experience worth splurging on. The combination of tradition and novelty, along with exceptionally warm hospitality, is what makes Casa Bond a standout. The restaurant is perhaps part of a growing trend in the food industry — forward-thinking establishments that give cuisines of all types a seat at the fine-dining table.
Contact Lauren Ng at [email protected].
