Having launched her brand in 1967, Norma Kamali is a veteran of the fashion industry. Her Fall 2025 collection took form as an installation in Kamali’s office space at 609 Greenwich St., featuring new and innovative pieces that drew on her expansive archive as well as fan favorites reimagined with new patterns and textures. 

The space was divided into two sections with a large LED screen that displayed editorial photos from the collection parading slowly across the screen, allowing the audience to take their time in admiring the pieces. Mannequins lined the walls neatly, dressed in black and brown vegan leather, floral lace and faux fur scarves. 

The edginess of the leather and the severity of the clean cut silhouettes contrasted with the music played at the installation — a medley of Bob Dylan folk songs. In a recorded presentation given by Kamali about the collection, she said that despite “being into different music at the time he was coming up,” she was deeply inspired by Dylan’s work, which she became acquainted with through Martin Scorsese’s 2019 film, “Rolling Thunder Revue: A Bob Dylan Story.” 

This newfound appreciation for Dylan was reflected in her use of fedoras and cowboy hats for the collection, many of which were taken directly from a past collaboration Kamali did with the brand Stetson in the 1980s. Adorned with feathers and ribbons, the hats brought a fun and unique twist to the collection, which is reflective of Kamali’s admiration for Dylan using “fashion to entertain.” 

Kamali is a lifelong New Yorker, having been born on the Upper East Side and attending the Fashion Institute of Technology. However, much of her work is inspired by the beauty of nature. One of Kamali’s most famous designs, the Sleeping Bag Coat, is a direct byproduct of a camping trip Kamali took in the 1970s. 

The coat’s iconic puffed bodice and durable nylon fabric has made it a staple piece for winter fashion, earning a spot at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The jacket was presented in a variety of patterns, including classics like plain black and new styles like gingham and leaf print. Styled with a black leather belt, the piece took on a new flair that was more modern and appropriate for the city.

Another house classic, the Diana gown, was reinvigorated through her use of mesh fabric, elevating the dress to be both sexy and classy. Incorporating a black leather moto jacket and low-brimmed bucket hat highlighted another one of Kamali’s major inspirations for the collection — the mixing of “masculine and feminine energies,” which she describes in her recorded presentation. 

This theme appeared in the variety of pantsuits and catsuits in the collection, where the traditionally feminine hourglass silhouette was exaggerated with shoulder pads. The use of shoulder pads showed up consistently throughout Kamali’s work, having been credited with popularizing the clothing style in the 1980s. Like many other pieces in the collection, the androgynous styling adds to the yin and yang dynamic Kamali sought to express.

One of the collection’s standout designs was a hooded mesh robe, which was shown in black and tan colors. The fabric draped over the body from head to toe, flowing to the floor in a lightly pleated skirt. The plunging neckline was complemented by the hood, adding a sense of mystery and playfulness to an otherwise basic shape. 

In an interview with WSN, Marissa Santalla, Kamali’s public relations manager, said that what makes Kamali unique is how long she has been designing, allowing her to “reinspire herself.” Another aspect that makes Kamali special is how she is able to elevate everyday clothing in innovative ways by taking inspiration from unlikely places like campsites and folk music.

Though the installation gave viewers a solid overview of the collection, leaving the space I couldn’t help but want more. Seeing the dynamic energy brought into the clothing through the movement in the editorial photos, one could not help but think the collection’s juxtaposition between flowy and constructed fabrics would have been better showcased in a runway show. 

Regardless of presentation, it is clear that Kamali has been, and continues to be, an important figure in New York City fashion. Through this collection, Kamali pushed herself to create new pieces while remaining loyal to the consumer base that has taken her this far. 

Contact Grace Tan at [email protected]