Bold, theatrical and drenched in crimson — Frederick Anderson unveiled his Fall 2025 collection at New York Fashion Week inside the iconic Paradise Club in Times Square. Inspired by gothic glam that harkens back to the ’90s, the venue’s atmosphere was intimate yet grand.
As the red curtains parted, a singer emerged, draped in a black, glitter robe with a large cross dangling from their neck. Their operatic voice commanded the room with haunting elegance. But just as the audience settled into the moment, the tempo shifted — sultry, electrifying beats took over, setting the tone for a fierce display of looks.
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The fabric choices used for the pieces were equally as captivating. A standout look featured a deep burgundy top with a moiré pattern that caught the light, which accentuated the movement in the fabric. The voluminous puff sleeves added a vintage-inspired drama, while the structured black corset-like midsection cinched the waist, creating an hourglass silhouette. The scoop neckline was accentuated by a bold black choker, cleverly tied together with a bold red flower that gave the ensemble a romantic, Victorian-esque touch. The model’s sheer black, vertically striped pants further created a sense of elongation and fluidity, brilliantly contrasting with the opaque black low-waisted briefs underneath.
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Slipped between the dramatic, darker looks was a lighter, monochrome design. The garment was a white asymmetrical dress with cape-like sleeves flowing effortlessly from the model’s shoulders and draping loosely over their body, as it transitioned into a fitted black waist section that cinched in to add structure. The interplay between the light, white fabric and the sharp black waist piece established a powerful contrast, creating a look that was both ethereal and commanding. The accessories also played a crucial role: a chunky black beaded necklace with an oversized, fringed textile embellishment dripped down the front, providing a sense of cohesion in the overall styling.
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The zebra stripe was a staple pattern throughout the collection, which risked becoming repetitive. Yet, the varied silhouettes still injected a sense of movement and intrigue.
As for the hair, it was largely sleek and pulled back either in a tight bun or ponytail, emphasizing the models’ strong features and allowing the dramatic makeup and accessories to take center stage. The makeup starred deep burgundy lips, darkly smoked-out eyes and sharply defined brows. Michelle Webb, the makeup artist behind the striking looks, described the finale’s inspiration as a nod to the ’90s goth glam trend but with a modern twist.
“We added red blush to complement the finale, which featured an all-red dress in a room that was entirely red,” Webb shared. The result was a visually stunning moment that left the audience in awe.
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Anderson delivered a show that didn’t just reference gothic glamour: It embodied it, twisted it and made it feel contemporary. It was confidence, sensuality and power stitched into fabric.
Contact Daphne Zhu at [email protected].