Visitors wandered through a garden of sequins, satins and delicately beaded patterns at Michael DePaulo’s New York Fashion Week showroom on Saturday at the Rockefeller Center’s 610 Loft & Garden. With elegant detailing contrasted by striking silhouettes, his entourage of gowns embraced the artistry of modern couture while maintaining the brand’s signature femininity.
At his return to NYFW after eight years in Los Angeles, Boston-based DePaulo — known for creating traditional bridal wear — scaled his ingenuity to match the daring, dramatized garments now seen on the runway. Attendees circled a square platform showcasing about 20 designs, with models frozen for the nearly two-hour presentation.
Upon entering the venue, guests were met with a panel of looks that perfectly encapsulated a futuristic take on DePaulo’s Mystical Garden theme. Alternating between bright, olive-colored gowns with softer structures and sleek, duskier dresses with ornate detailing, each look added dimension and honored spring hues. The first few garments set a standard for the collection’s modernity that left attendees wishing it continued throughout the exhibit.
Among the most conspicuous looks was a dark green mini dress adorned entirely in sequins, with about a dozen vines draping over its trim. The hoop skirt of the bottom half of the dress created a sharp silhouette, with the garment sitting at an almost unnerving distance from the model. Topped with a large black bow, the dress was eye-catching, blending geometric structures and flashy materials.
As guests rounded the corner of the platform, passing a vibrant pink dress that looked straight out of a fairytale, DePaulo’s embrace of a boxier silhouette was on full display. One model wore a teal gown that formed a perfect triangle from its straight neckline to the floor, highlighting DePaulo’s careerlong affinity for pleats. She was immediately contrasted by a model next to her, wearing a white floral minidress with a straight cut and accentuated boxy shoulders. At the end of the line was a white dress that served as an ode to DePaulo’s popular wedding designs, with thematic floral embellishments and on-trend tulle skirt layers.
Each model had matching loose curls and dewy complexions, cultivating a sense of consistency and cohesiveness throughout the collection. Marc Harvey — founder of Marc Harvey Beauty and sponsor for the show — said the cosmetics aligned with DePaulo’s curated space and aesthetic.
“It’s all about what the designer wants,” Harvey said in an interview with WSN. “For this, we were really looking for something glowing and ethereal.”
As attendees continued to sip boutique seltzers and make their way through the showroom, the collection pivoted to more neutral, dark tones. While still spotlighting keynote florals, intricate patterns and dresses that take two people to hold, DePaulo’s collection quickly turned primarily black. The dresses took on more classic silhouettes, reminiscent of how the designer has styled celebrities including Gwen Stefani, Camila Cabello and Lea Michele.
While the pieces were elegant, they fell short of innovation. Although the collection had more energy than DePaulo’s previous works, it didn’t accomplish the dramatism of other shows this season. More exaggerated features would have made DePaulo’s collection more experimental and contemporary — eccentricity is critical for a lasting industry impact, and this selection lacked bolder unconventionality.
Among the most common themes throughout the collection — and throughout attendees’ attire — was lace bodices. A prominent trend in fashion week exhibits from brands including Valentino, Balenciaga and Gucci, floral-patterned sheer lace also made its mark at DePaulo’s show. From full-body outfits — such as an all-ivory jumpsuit adorned with rust flowers and a tulle cape — to one of DePaulo’s corsets seen on several guests, the designer’s use of lace was only amplified by this collection.
Several of DePaulo’s outfits also boasted voluminous skirts with a range of silhouettes. One full-length hoop skirt created a particularly striking shape, in addition to another high-low skirt with sculpted ruffles. His use of layers also matched prominent frills in Paris shows from brands such as Chloé, Chanel and Bottega Veneta.
DePaulo’s arc represents the fashion industry’s hunger for loud designs, shadowing trends from Paris on the canvas of more conventional pieces. While he could have made bolder moves to distinguish his collection from more typical dress wear, he made it clear to attendees that he had returned to the New York fashion industry with a greater embrace of modernity.
“He stuck to his same aesthetic — he’s always been known for the angelic style of gowns,” Harvey said. “He just put a little more art into the brand.”
Contact Dharma Niles at [email protected].
