New York Men’s Day offers a glimpse into the promising future of modern vintage menswear

Paving the way for innovative, contemporary menswear, up-and-coming designers debut their collections.

Amber Loza, Contributing Writer

On the afternoon of Sept. 9, six different designers partnered with New York Men’s Day to bring their new talent to Daylight Studios. Sipping on complementary Dēlongi espresso martinis, hundreds of people walked around all-white showrooms to see how these new artists played with holographics, mesh silhouettes and polka dots, all traditionally unseen in menswear.

FRIED RICE

As Rihanna’s “Disturbia” pulsed throughout the FRIED RICE showroom, it was impossible not to feel the lively, rambunctious energy from the crowd. 

Dressed in a variety of mix-and-match patterns, models posed comfortably on white blocks. Whether it was denim, cheetah print or pinstripes, Lower East Side-based designer Maya Wang does not fear eclectic style — she embraces it.

“Celebrating diversity … celebrating life, that’s what FRIED RICE is all about,” Wang told WSN.

Against the large, paint-splattered tapestry, the models wearing loose-fitted overalls and cargo pants celebrated the spirit of this season’s collection by dancing jovially to the music. Striking shades of red, green and yellow brought a vibrant and endearing spirit to the collection. The energy of Wang’s cool, relaxed looks match the stylish streets of New York.

Holo Market 

Holo Market, led by designer Riki Yoshida, fully embraced the summer season, presenting a beach-inspired collection with bucket hats, palm leaves and neon colors. There was a clear emphasis on stylish comfort as the models looked ready to go on vacation in these casual pieces.

Several models sported sweatpants with fluorescent tie-dye patterns, while others wore cashmere cardigans styled around the waist.

One model wore a loose sundress stitched together with six different floral fabrics, and light ruffles lining the bottom. As if that wasn’t enough, the look was also paired with a patterned bucket hat, backpack and fanny pack. Although the foliage patterned accessories were impressive, they took away from the intricate details of the sundress.

Nicholas Raefski

Nicholas Raefski’s collection felt like entering a new universe. While the inspiration for his previous fall collection came from ’70s iconography, this one looked to the future.

“Man looking at the future with an optimistic lens,” said Raefski to WSN, in reference to the new collection.

Instead of simply having the models stand and smolder at the audience, Raefski took an unconventional approach. The set was a futuristic restaurant with two bartenders serving ice-cold bottles of Topo Chico. Nonchalant models surrounded the fictitious bar at their respective tables, chatting to each other over an imaginary meal.

Funky geometric patterns frequently appeared on the pants, usually in blue or red. There were several wool coats, leather jackets and pantsuits, which Raefski noted were intentional to incorporate more formal attire into his brand. A standout among these looks was a black pantsuit adorned with bright rhinestones. The model shined radiantly, looking like a starry night sky.

Flavor Flav, an American rapper and reality TV star, wore his iconic clock necklace against a Raefski patterned two-piece bomber jacket and short set, making up the most eye-catching look of the night. The pattern was reminiscent of mechanical imagery, adding to the futuristic collection.

SO.TY

Serene, instrumental music at SO.TY’s debut collection “Moderne Journey” immersed the showroom’s audience in a natural landscape, created from the warm yellow overhead lights and subtle projection of the sun and clouds onto the seated models. On one side of the room, a model walked on a treadmill covered with wild barley, pioneering miles and miles into a far-off desert.

The sustainable, neo-luxe menswear line had models wearing monochromatic looks in rich jewel tones of emerald, ruby and sapphire. The collection consisted of jumpsuits, puffy bomber jackets and pleated pantsuits, often with no shirt underneath. Previously an architect, Charles Harbison —  the Chief Fashion Director of SO.TY. — highlights the body in proportion and detail.

“[Moderne Journey] pushes a fresh, soft view on menswear that’s gender inclusive,” Harbison said.

A few statement pieces — a plaid pant suit and a holographic pink overcoat over an orange hoodie — pushed the boundaries of SO.TY’s neutral aesthetic. The monochrome looks could come across as basic, but Harbison’s distinct tailoring and fitted silhouettes made them stand out.

Nobis

Nobis, NYMD’s sponsor this year, exhibited models surrounded by pillars of electronic images displaying rain, snow and other intense weather patterns. The collection combatted these climates with an array of hefty outdoor wear — sturdy jackets, windbreakers and even a poncho.

Although Nobis intended to create an intersection between fashion and functionality, the fashion lacked creativity — it was nothing I hadn’t already seen from Patagonia or The North Face. The light and earthy color palette and nicely-fitted silhouettes, while cohesive, felt too simplistic. Aside from the occasional camouflage jacket and orange matching set, the patterns and textures embraced monotony.

Todd Patrick

A group of models sat comfortably on a leather couch for Todd Patrick. One might even think they were having a house party. Juxtaposed against a bright white wall, vintage luggage trunks and an ornate rug decorated the space. 

Designers Desyrée Nicole and Gabriella Paulino created the spitting image of a ‘70s home with their groovy scenery. Nicole and Paulino said that they thrifted the decor themselves.

“We’re inspired by a little bit of everything. We like to pull from different generations,” Nicole said. “There’s no strict theme, we like to let the art speak for itself.”

Many of the pieces subtly incorporated ’70s inspired trends to match the brand’s vintage identity — leather-flared pants, two-piece corduroy sets and a checkered zip-up sweater. Even the color scheme was reminiscent of the era, featuring earthy browns with pops of varying hues of green and teal.

However, Nicole and Paulino were not confined to this era. The statement pieces seemed like a modern reimagining of pastel fishnet pants, mesh polka dot tops and yellow wool coats. Todd Patrick’s sophisticated and chic collection makes menswear more adventurous.

Contact Amber Loza at [email protected].