The impassioned beating of Japanese taiko drums reverberated throughout the halls of Kidill’s Paris Fashion Week show. Attendees were tense, standing in suspense to see the spectacle that would find inside — a culmination of the spirited genius of Kidill’s designer Hiroaki Sueyasu.
Kidill, a Japanese streetwear brand, unveiled its Fall/Winter 2025-26 “Formal Anarchist” collection on Jan. 21, the first day of Paris Fashion Week. The show took place at Césure, an esteemed arts and culture center and former university campus located near the Notre Dame Cathedral. The venue’s history of hosting alternative artists was perfect for the show, which was a playful yet experimental take on Harajuku, Tokyo’s late ’90s to early 2000s fashion scene.
Inspired by his experience with hardcore punk subcultures in Tokyo and London, Sueyasu strives to create “pureness within chaos” in his collections and capture self-expression in the most daring and unconstrained ways possible. This season’s outfits embodied just that — baggy metallic pants, brightly colored graphic tops and fluffy, sometimes noodle-like wigs tastefully pushed the boundaries of urban fashion without losing a sense of charm or style. Simply put, the clothes were eccentric.
While Kidill pieces are widely known to have nods to Vivienne Westwood with their inclusion of plaids and ornate silhouettes, the brand collaborated with Harajuku institution A Store Robot and Los Angeles-based artist Brett Westfall to bring neon furs, black bondage-style straps and skater motifs to the collection. Westfall’s signature strawberry print was the show’s most prominent pattern, appearing on nearly every model’s outfit as trenchcoats or berets.
Although the combination of these aesthetics together may not seem pleasing, the overall presentation of each look was youthful and dramatic without being too flashy. One of the simpler looks featured an oversized black sweater with a big red strawberry design, fishnet stockings, blue and red-striped knee highs, combat boots and a pink and black avant-garde wig. The use of bright colors served as a reminder that the image of punk doesn’t always have to be just grunge and graffiti.
Another look featured a black and white strawberry print dress, blue and purple-striped knee highs, combat boots, a pink and green-pigtailed wig, a spiked collar and a black leather bomber jacket. The feminine silhouette of the dress combined with the masculine touch of the jacket showed how punk can both transcend and unite different norms and identities.
As a testament to the collection’s liveliness, Japanese folk band Seppuku Pistols accompanied the runway with upbeat instrumental music, featuring taiko drums, bells, bamboo flutes and shamisens. Known for performing in punk clubs and street parades across Japan, the Seppuku Pistols ended Kidill’s show with a bang –– a full-on dance party that immediately ignited the room with chaotic energy. Performers barged into the crowds with instruments, inviting attendees to join in on the celebration, breaking the tense atmosphere of most fashion shows.
This is what Sueyasu ultimately does best — evoking emotion and excitement for his clothes and redefining punk as both modern and nostalgic.
Contact Andrea Lui at [email protected].
