The line for the Oxford Fashion Studio Show I was out the door well before the show started. Countless colors of fur coats lined the side of Pier 59 Studios as guests shivered in the freezing weather. Inside the room was packed, all of the seats were filled instantly and others stood, peering upwards, three rows back. As the lights dimmed, the chatter died down for the first collection.
CHAAHAY THAKKER: DEPLICO
The collection began with a vibrant green and yellow piece, highly structured with knot details. This intensity of color and shape continued through the rest of the looks. Most of the models had their hair slicked back, keeping the focus on the garments. Although this collection had fewer pieces than some, they were very impactful, all crisp clean lines and strong jewel tones. The models walked to an upbeat song, but despite their quick movements, the garments remained stiff.
POLI AND JO: THE DEFENDER COLLECTION
Poli and Jo focused on the bags rather than outfits. Their models wore white pieces of all different cuts. Many of them appeared to be wearing cotton and dressed in a casual manner with the sleeves rolled up to maintain the focus of the guests. The main color in their bag collection was a deep forest green. This was contrasted starkly by the bright red highlights that the pieces had. Their collection included backpacks, purses and tote bags, some of which were worn together on the same model.
Farah Naz: Farah Naz A/W 19 Couture Collection
The shift between this collection and the last was enormous. The models wore incredible gowns and one pantsuit, a departure from the casual nature of the previous collection. The first piece was a deep blue gown with a matching cape. There were beautiful stones covering the dress, drawing audible gasps from the crowd as the light reflected off. From there, the looks continued to get stronger, moving from blue to red to black and ending in white. The second to last piece, a sleek white pantsuit, was very different from the voluminous dresses that had been moving down the runway. The very last piece was a show-stopper, once again drawing gasps from the crowd. The model looked bridal in her jewel-encrusted white gown and veil, causing the loud applause that rang out at the end of Farah’s collection.
RON RAMOS: A/W 2019
The next collection was less cohesive color-wise, but each model wore a similar, wide-brimmed hat. All but one of these hats contained the same color scheme as the outfit it was paired with. The color palette began in black and white before blossoming into deep jewel tones. Most of the pieces are constructed out of satiny material that shined whenever the light hit them. One of the final pieces was a departure from the others, a short, deep pink dress that was made entirely out of sequins.
MINZKOU: BOHOLECTIC WAVE
This collection combined unique colors with dynamic silhouettes. The first piece was eye-catching, a garment made out of many brightly colored stars with a matching headpiece. Some of the following looks were beaded or sequined, and each shape was different from the rest. The color palette began brightly and vibrantly before a slow fade into beige and light pink. The looks in this collection were not as cohesive as some of the others, but ultimately, they caught the eye of everyone in the room.
JISU LIM: POST NO BILL
This collection was one of the most vibrant ones to go down the runway, a mix of strong shapes and bright colors. It was designer Jisu Lim’s first collection after graduating from college in May. She wanted to create a unisex collection inspired by daily life, what she described as “what I can see in New York, on every street.” The first model walked out in a strong, deep green coat with orange accents, which were carried through to his eyeshadow. One model was in a shirt constructed entirely from mesh, eclectic pants, and dark glasses.
NC BY CHARLY NZOGANG: A/W 2019
Different shades of gray and black dominated this collection, with only a slight pop of red for color. Many of the looks included multiple layers and removable pieces like hoods and jackets that the models would pose with and take off mid-runway. Women inspired the collection for Nzogang, who called every woman a “shero.”
JYURI LEE: EGO-FRIENDLY
The last collection featured high collars and dramatic silhouettes, making for an attention-grabbing end to an innovative show. The first piece had a high, ruffled collar made of shimmering silver material, and the collection’s color scheme consisted mostly of greys, purples and pinks. The most striking piece, which was made primarily out of a shaggy pink material, stood out among the stiff textiles and flowy fabrics of the other looks.
Read more of WSN’s New York Fashion Week coverage here. Email Tess Tamar at [email protected]