New York University's independent student newspaper, established in 1973.

Washington Square News

New York University's independent student newspaper, established in 1973.

Washington Square News

New York University's independent student newspaper, established in 1973.

Washington Square News

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‘Queer Eye’ Antoni’s New Restaurant Is Nothing Special

Here’s everything you should know about ‘Queer Eye’ Antoni Porowski’s new restaurant
The+Sicilian+C+Bomb+salad+with+citrus%2C+avocado%2C+shaved+fennel%2C+pomegranate%2C+and+toasted+pistachio.+%28Photo+by+Sarah+Gotfredsen%29
The “Sicilian C Bomb” salad with citrus, avocado, shaved fennel, pomegranate, and toasted pistachio. (Photo by Sarah Gotfredsen)

d hamburgers to NYU students and residents of the West Village, the diner Village Den has closed. Keeping the same name, it has been taken over by Antoni Porowski — best known as the food and drink expert on the Netflix show “Queer Eye.” 

Porowski has replaced the former diner’s mouthwatering hangover food with diet-friendly, gluten-free, low-carb meals. While the food will definitely make you feel less guilty about that slice (or was it three?) of Joe’s Pizza you ate last Friday, it will also leave a mark on your bank account.

Located across the street from the fitness center Equinox, it’s clear that The Village Den’s target audience is health-conscious, West Village 20-somethings. Outside the cafe, there is a sign with the text “On the Corner of Vegan and Paleo.” Inside, the diner is filled with communal tables, with a cute cartoon map of the West Village pasted on the wall. Many guests work on their laptops, which gives the restaurant a nonchalant vibe. 

The Village Den on 225 W 12th Street. (Photo by Sarah Gotfredsen)

The Village Den serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. A sign above the counter displays six different categories to choose from: Coffee, Breakfast, Salads, Bowls, TV Dinners and Smoothies. Symbols next to each dish identify it as vegan, keto-friendly, gluten-free or Whole-30 suitable. Because of close attention to nutritional value, it seems a bit odd that the menu doesn’t display calorie counts. 

I ordered the $13.50 Sicilian C-Bomb salad, which includes citrus, avocado, shaved fennel, pomegranate seeds and roasted pistachios. I also ordered a $4 oat-milk latte and one of the restaurant’s TV Dinners called the Market Plate, which comes with three sides for $13. From the 12 available sides, I choose sweet potato fries, mashed peas with mint and cauliflower rice. 

The “Market Plate TV-Dinner.” (Photo by Sarah Gotfredsen)

After less than five minutes of ordering, a very hip-looking waiter in a black turtleneck told me that my food was ready to be picked up from the counter. 

The food was served in a dull grey to-go container in a way I imagine only prison food is served. The food tasted only decent. The fries were over-steamed to the point of resembling mashed potatoes, and my salad was so calorie-restricted that it tasted more like an appetizer than a meal. My side of rice was room temperature with an oatmeal-like consistency. For the amount of money I paid for the meal, I expected the food to be higher quality.

Ultimately, I think my view of the restaurant and the quality of its food can be summed up with this: If I had to choose between the Village Den’s salad and Kimmel’s falafel bowl, I would definitely go with Kimmel’s, but then again, Kimmel doesn’t have oat milk. 

Email Sarah Gotfredsen
at [email protected].

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