Gems, rocks and minerals were the cornerstones of the Minki Fall/Winter 2018 collection. While contemplating the question of whether a rock formed by nature holds more beauty than a gemstone carved by the hands of a skilled sculptor, designer Minki Cheng incorporated both. Genuine precious stones were used as brooches on coats, and stone snap buttons from Morocco were also used as fasteners. These naturally sourced materials lent a raw touch to the manipulated silhouettes of the collection. Cheng also used 3D printing to create playful gemstone earrings — a manufactured way of emulating something natural. This idea was also apparent in the references to the cut of gemstones through the layering of tulle to create a faceted, check-like pattern.

More serious, stony colors made up most of the collection, while select pieces featured red or purple details or layering of stone prints. The varying transparencies of the garments, from the quilted outerwear to the light tulle, was also indicative of the inspiration of rocks and jewels. The collection included both angular and organic shapes within the pieces and as their silhouettes. Teddy fleece and mohair contrasted with the defined linear quality of these pieces, giving a cozier quality to the collection.

The way Cheng utilized weight and texture to create patterns in his designs was inventive and eye-catching. Like a craftsman who cuts and polishes gems, he took the raw materials and formed something shiny, new and beautiful.

Email Sophie Shaw at [email protected].