Michael Costello’s Fall/Winter 2017 collection  was all about designing for the powerful and sexy woman, or the “enviable vixen” as Costello put it.

The looks could be categorized into six (technically seven) groups. First, there were the see-through flowing white lace ensembles, then there where the draped and fringed looks, then the blocked bionics, then the sequins, then the black lace and finally the rock crystal gowns. Oh, and one lone feather dress concoction which had absolutely nothing to do with the other looks.

The floor length gown stood most prevalent throughout the show. Not surprising, as Costello has been known for his gown construction and execution since his “Project Runway” days. Each different material warranted another variation of a gown, and some were more successful than others.

What became clear early on is that Costello does not like people to actually walk in his clothes, including the models. The audience felt for many a model as they hobbled down the runway in these swaths of fabric, and there was more than one near-tumble. The models lacked a certain level of effortlessness that clearly was what Costello was trying to achieve.

After seeing the sea of gowns what was most refreshing was also an outlier — a sharply tailored suit jacket with fringed skirt paired with matching oversized white glasses and a fedora. This look felt wholly un-Costello but that is exactly what made it so great. The jacket fit and was draped on the model perfectly, and there was this boho-rocker (apparently the whole collection was supposed to have a rock and roll influence, who knew?!) flair that just made the look seem effortless, unlike most of the others. The model wearing it strutted down the runway with a confidence which really did live up to Costello’s “enviable vixen” muse.

Costello needs to understand that he is not designing as an avant-garde French couturier, but instead for real people. If he continues to push the envelope and move away from his standard gown routine, he will definitely be a designer to watch.    

Email Jacob Soley at [email protected].