The Custo Barcelona Fall/Winter 2016 show marked a watershed moment for the Spanish designer—the 20th anniversary of his 1996 New York Fashion Week debut. Dalmau Custo’s work even caused the New York Times to coin the term customania, signifying the indelible impression the brand’s take on color, graphics and mix of fabrics has left on the world.

20 years later, this season’s Custo Barcelona show, entitled “Reborn,” is a paradigm of change: the collection showcased a more softened palette and fewer graphics or fabric mixtures. In particular, the infusion of black into the color scheme—a hue noticeably absent from previous collections—boldly represented this drastic transformation.  

Featuring 16 female models and seven male models, the looks centered around a combination of jacquard-printed bomber jackets, full-length maxi dresses, and silk and acetate graphic work done by hand. Playful transparencies, which stood in stark contrast with more opaque elements, created another layer of dimension.

One standout feature was the square-framed glasses by Opticalia Eyewear—the common thread interwoven amongst every look. The most iconic look was a pair of flared bell-bottom pants with gold lamé, paired with a geometric printed bomber jacket.

Backstage, Designer Dalmau Custo spoke of his target audience, saying, “It is time to renew the connection with new consumers, who are the children of the first generation of Custo consumers.”

With minimalist makeup by Gato for Maybelline and pin-straight hair-styles worn down, the 20th anniversary collection, presented at Pier 59 Studios, is most eloquently summed up in the words of the designer himself: “a swing to the restraint, the containment.”      

Email Nikita Roach at [email protected].