Salvatore Ferragamo Fall/Winter 2015

By David Bologna, Staff Writer

Season by season, Massimiliano Giornetti simultaneously infuses this iconic Italian brand with a bolder touch of modernity and an intellectual reworking of the past. This Fall/Winter 2015 collection was no exception, with almost every covetable piece proving more artistic and more luxuriously wearable than the next.

Pythagoras himself could use a lesson from Giornetti as a strong geometric motif was sustained throughout the collection’s pieces along with the dynamically abstracted carpet runway. Opening with a series of 30s-inspired dress coats, attention was given to the linearity of navy blazers with asymmetrical lapels defined by assemblies of oversized buttons in red and yellow.

Bound in perfect blocks of red, white and sand furs and stitched in elegant kaleidoscopes on turtlenecked midis and satin silk slips, the sharp shapes of Giornetti’s unmistakable geometric patterns could not have been executed better to both invoke the trendiest of decades for the coming season while retaining the contemporary couth of a Ferragamo customer.

The most surprising element of Giornetti’s season was the unexpected use of athletic-striped jersey and cashmere cut into bouncing, ribbed boatneck ponchos, two-toned dresses and more. The elastic fabric stole the show, flouncing down the runway as models Josephine Le Tutour and Irina Kravchenko donned floor-length capes of the sporty chic fabric given a facelift for the upscale Italian citizen.

This theme of reinvention is exactly the kind of path the Ferragamo label needs to reclaim its title as one of the top Italian names in fashion, and Giornetti seems to be doing it just right, one structural step at a time.

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