Katharine Polk, the designer behind the edgy brand Houghton, sent an army down the runway for her Fall/Winter 2015 show. Clad in a palate of olive green, muted yellow and deep navy, the models strutted down the runway in military-inspired garbs like chic soldiers ready for battle.

With this collection, Polk mastered the balance between masculinity and femininity, strength and softness. Menswear suiting and camouflage-inspired prints were softened by the inclusion of provocative French lace pieces and wool jersey dresses that moved down the runway like liquid gold. As an expert on bridal-wear, Polk knows a woman’s body well, and this collection–despite its ode to a military theme–was no exception to the display of this skill. A silky wrap dress featuring shoulder pads that brilliantly contrasted its body conscious draping, an oversized wrap coat that ironically enhanced a slim waist; in case one were to forget, these masculine clothes were nonetheless made to fit a feminine figure.

Lush coats in Mongolian fur joined the ranks as the show progressed. Upon witnessing a pale pink version with structured shoulders and an ankle-grazing length, a fellow show-goer exclaimed, “wrap me up in one of those until the winter ends.”

This season marks an evolutionary step for Houghton. While retaining its decidedly delicate touch, the collection effortlessly infused a sense of power. With red lips and shaggy bangs, the Houghton girl is perhaps the epitome of every woman’s aspirations. Strong and confident but still beautiful and womanly, they marched on in their combat boots and looked damn good while doing it.

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