Bibhu Mohapatra Fall/Winter 2013

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Consistent with his past collections of glittering evening wear and luxurious furs, Bibhu Mohapatra’s new collection for Fall/Winter 2013 proved even more impeccable and decadent than his last. Inspired by the photography of Man Ray and his muses, the 33-look collection featured subtle hints of Dadaism and Bauhaus art and is evocative of Parisian glamour in the 20s and 30s.

Graphic prints and color blocking were two of the major trends present throughout the show. The deep jewel tones — violet, navy, rust, cream, and teal — that made up the collection’s color palette were used in interesting combinations. One color-blocked dress combined navy and teal; another mixed navy and rust. These pops of color gave the collection a freshness that could have easily been lost in the sea of beaded chiffons and shimmering satins. The prints were modern and simple and the textiles were particularly rich. Most fabrics featured simple geometric shapes like diamonds and squares, keeping the focus on the silhouettes.

Fur accents also reoccurred throughout the show, but they were used very carefully so that they complimented but did not overpower the garments themselves. Several looks featured voluminous fur collars to contrast the form-fitting silhouettes of the gowns, and many of the coats contained panels of fur that fit in seamlessly with the other textiles.

The hair and makeup for the show was appropriately minimalistic. Each model sported a low chignon, emulating the typical bobbed hairstyles of the 20s and 30s, and the primary accessories were felt hats which sported a grid cutout. One of the looks that stood out most was a fuchsia floor-length gown paired with burgundy fur around the neck. The well-balanced medley of simplicity and intricacy that characterized each look made this collection breathtaking from start to finish.

Deeksha Mehta is a contributing writer. Email her at [email protected]