When you play with denim, you play with fire. Play your cards right, and your outfit will be a symphony of subtle yet striking elegance. Play your cards wrong, and you might look like this.

First and foremost, it’s important to note the difference between regular, raw and selvedge denim. Regular denim is what most jeans are made of; the pieces come pre-washed to soften the fabric and reduce indigo stains, and the fabric near the seam doesn’t have a clean edge. Raw denim doesn’t undergo this pre-washing process, and thus holds its shape better, and the gradual erosion of the indigo dye creates highly sought-after fades. Selvedge denim gets its name from the clean edge on the fabric near the seam of the pants, called the “self-edge.” Selvedge denim can be either raw or regular, although most retailers sell selvedge jeans made with raw denim. The finished seam of selvedge jeans makes the fabric much more durable and adds a crispness to the cuff that regular jeans don’t have. Raw and selvedge are substantially pricier than regular, but don’t let that dissuade you. A good pair of raw selvedge jeans is one of the most essential items in all of menswear.

There’s been a spike in skinny jeans the past few years, which used to be solely reserved to middle school skates. Skinny jeans, black ones in particular, became a key component of grunge and goth-ninja aesthetics. A basic look that epitomizes the allure of black skinny jeans is the black Doc Martens/black skinny jeans/white button-up/black bomber/cigarette combo you’ve probably seen a Tisch student wear in the past week. Not to knock black skinnies — they pair very well with most T-shirts and can even be dressed up with a blazer for a more formal look. If that’s your thing, check out Uniqlo’s collection if you’re on a budget and Saint Laurent’s if you’re not.

Yet the menswear zeitgeist is gradually moving back to a baggier, more traditional silhouette for jeans. Straight and slim-fit jeans are becoming more popular choices for menswear enthusiasts, while bootcut jeans are still only worn by MMA fans and early-2000s pop stars. Pale-washed jeans are enjoying their time in the limelight thanks to the explosion of the palewave aesthetic, and jeans in deeper hues have always paired well with just about anything.

Finally, do not feel like you have to own one specific type of jeans. Just keep in mind the different types, colors and fits of denim, and you will have a solid foundation for incorporating denim into your daily looks more wisely.

Email Matthew Perry at b[email protected].