Fashion: A Name-Driven Industry
February 8, 2016
Regardless of its moral standing, nepotism has played an integral role in the fashion industry for generations. Nepotism — by no means a modern concept — benefitted prominent fashion model of the ‘60s Marisa Berenson; Chanel model of the ‘80s Ines de la Fressange and numerous models and designers before them. The influence of this factor extends beyond the high-fashion model status currently enjoyed by Kendall Jenner and is regarded as a time-honored tradition, revered among celebrity children or grand-children whose sights are set on careers within the fashion industry. Ubiquitous among hiring practices, family connections play a dominant role in determining who gets the job.
Though hard work is undoubtedly an element in many of the emerging stars’ quick rise to fame, family connections serve as an undeniable catalyst for ascension. In some cases, this component does most of the work. Critics of Brooklyn Beckham, amateur photographer and child of Victoria and David Beckham, condemn his recent shoot for a Burberry campaign as depreciation to the profession of fashion photography. The snubbed professionals claim that cases like these exemplify the industry’s penchant for favoring connections — and followers — over talent honed through experience.
Following this train of thought, a condemnation of the stardom enjoyed by Georgia May Jagger or Stella McCartney is essentially a condemnation of the system upon which the fashion industry rests. Jobs are often acquired through connections with previous internship bosses, successful ex-coworkers and friends of a relative. College students receive constant instruction to stay in touch with any potentially useful contacts, with the common understanding that even a notification of a job opening often comes from contacts. Erasing the influence nepotism holds would require a complete restructuring of the entire industry. Redefining a field centered on relations would require a social and industrial reordering almost too vast to be accomplished.
Gigi Hadid’s success serves as a testimony to this fact in the same way as one overeager mother’s efforts to connect her daughter with a friend’s aunt-in-law who serves as an editor for a reputable style publication. Shocked condemnation of the near immediate success of models and designers who exploit such openings speaks to an ignorance of the field’s history and central values. Nepotism will continue to be a vital part of fashion lest the industry as a whole stops vetting their influencers using the family tree.
A version of this article appeared in the Feb. 8 edition. Email Grace Dixon at [email protected].