Upon stepping into Heart ‘n Soul, chef David Conn’s new Southern restaurant, one leaves the East Village and enters the real, old South.
Heart ‘n Soul is the result of Conn’s quest to find the African root of Southern soul food. The restaurant, which opened last month, offers a fine selection of soul food in its most authentic form along with a hip atmosphere and uplifting music.
Conn’s fascination with the cuisine developed when he moved to Tennessee in his teenage years, and his love for the region ultimately propelled him to leave Cornell University, where he worked as a music professor and conductor for 10 years. After serving as a chef at several restaurants across the country for nine years and perfecting his Southern cooking techniques, Conn finally settled down in Manhattan to open Heart ‘n Soul.
“The food we serve at Heart ‘n Soul is not authentic African — we are just bringing soul food back to its roots,” Conn said. “It’s real Southern food with an educated and fun twist.”
Conn said he uses spices from Northern and Western Africa to revive the original recipes Africans brought to the United States during the colonial period. African-Americans created the unique cuisine within their secluded communities, notably along the Lowcountry of South Carolina and Georgia. Conn believes that the authenticity of this original soul food has been lost over time.
“Soul food has been dumbed down significantly,” Conn said, referring to popularized and simplified soul food items such as fried chicken. Heart ‘n Soul focuses on a more traditional version of soul food, which includes dishes that are not commercially prominent but essential nonetheless.
A fine example of a typical dish from Heart ‘n Soul is the crab cake with spiced tomato jam ($11). Although the jam looks like a typical cocktail sauce, it has a much deeper flavor and bite thanks to the Moroccan spices the chef uses.
When asked about his favorite dish at Heart ‘n Soul, the chef mentioned the peppered oxtail, served with his choice of starch, collards and merguez (mutton) gravy ($17).
The bourbon-braised short ribs ($21), served with sautéed greens, grits and Andouille demi-glace, is a customer favorite. Don’t forget to ask the chef about the dessert of the day ($5 to $6) — the banana cream pie is to die for.
Steinhardt freshman Suzanne Kim adores the restaurant.
“The chef is really eager to tell you all about the history of Southern cuisine,” she said.
Currently, Heart ‘n Soul is open from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., from Tuesday to Sunday. Conn has plans to extend the hours of operation during warmer seasons and to feature outdoor seating.
Heart ‘n Soul is located at 200 E. Third St. between avenues A and B.
A version of this article appeared in the Wednesday, April 3 edition. Daniel Yeom is a contributing writer. Email him at [email protected].