Tocca’s Spring 2013 collection, entitled “Kaleidoscope,” featured two turnstile mirror structures standing above painted floors. Models posed in each opening wearing feminine frocks with lightweight fabrics, geometric seams and a splash of bold colors. The lead designer, Emma Fletcher, has truly struck gold with her fourth collection for the brand. Not only was her inspiration clear (she spent hours looking at “faded polaroids of chevron-printed hot air balloons…and the translucent patterns of a vintage kaleidoscope”), but the results were tailored and wearable.

Tocca is known for marrying feminine and masculine elements. Function was clearly one of the focus points with modest lengths, hidden pockets and strategically placed pleats among soft, chiffon skirts. A highlight piece was a cobalt blue pant-suit layered over a white blouse. Some other pieces registered as more of an evening style, such as a little black dress with diamond-shaped cut-outs around the collar exposing black lace. The models each sported a small, teased bun, beige eyeshadow and red/pink lipstick. Each of these small details all reflected back to Fletcher’s vintage inspiration.

Few designers have the talent to successfully blend simplicity and modernity with clearly vintage-inspired style. Though she has only been with Tocca for two years, Fletcher has already outgrown the position, establishing herself as an incomparable and irreplaceable driving force behind the seventeen-year-old label.

Sara Radin is a contributing writer. Email her at [email protected].