If there’s anything to take away from Frederick Anderson’s designs, it would be his exceptional ability to turn a vision, inspired by his roots, into reality. The acclaimed New York City fashion designer took inspiration from the jazz blues of Memphis, his hometown, for his Fall/Winter 2024 collection. Now, his focus for the spring is “his Africa” — the Africa he wants everyone to see.

Anderson, a Black designer with over 20 years in the fashion industry, presented his Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear collection for New York Fashion Week at The DiMenna Center for Classical Music in Hudson Yards on Sept. 11. The show remained ultra-consistent with Anderson’s theme of African glam. From makeup artists applying jet-black geometric eye looks onto models backstage to the grand, art-exhibit-like venue reminiscent of the color of sand, the production mixed modernity with culture.

“It’s about my experience and the reference of how I see Africa,” Anderson said in an interview with WSN. “Everyone sees Africa and thinks the kente cloths and everything but no, it’s very modern. Whenever I go, I party, I have a great time.”

Anderson’s 47 looks at the show captured the essence of the African nightlife scene, especially with his sophisticated interpretation of cloak garments and airy layers.

The nude and mauve-colored dresses that models wore during the first half of the show were effortlessly charming due to their defined shoulders and necklines and draping hemlines. Paired with bold sunglasses and a mustard handbag, the third dress in particular had a beautiful construction of ruffles and would be the perfect outfit for a night out in spring.

Things took a turn in the second half of the show when the models’ looks became sultry, if not sexy. The lace and fringe patterns combined with black undergarments that peeked through the sheer fabric of the black dresses created elegant, curve-hugging silhouettes on the models, and — when styled with an oversized robe like in the 45th look — created a masterpiece. 

Two of the later looks used flame-red leopard print, and although similarly gorgeous maxi dresses, they felt out of place in a lineup of mostly black, white and muted tones.

Regardless, the energy in the room was undeniable. While the design of the stage was simple, the dynamic Afro-pop music sounding off on the runway and Anderson’s contagious smile and laughter with guests after the show made the experience feel incredibly alive.

“That’s what this is, I want to share my Africa,” Anderson said. “We’re global. Now, we’ve shared.”

Contact Andrea Lui at [email protected].