Detroit-based brand Deviate brought streetwear to a new level in its Spring/Summer 2023 collection by establishing itself as an amalgamation of art, fashion and community. Founded by sisters Cassidy and Kelsey Tucker, the label strives to put Detroit on the fashion map through involving its local community in several aspects of the production process. 

“So we work with the Boys & Girls Club of Southeastern Michigan, where they are able to learn all the facets of the fashion design industry,” Kelsey Tucker, the creative director of Deviate, said. “We also just want to be an example that you don’t have to be in New York or L.A. to be successful. You can do it from a non-traditional city.”

Rather than fashion just being seen as clothing, the sisters push boundaries to make the public look at fashion as art. Upon arriving at The Altman Building, the location for the brand’s New York Fashion Week show, a comic strip was laid out on each seat, depicting the central themes of the collection — friendship, overcoming doubt and pursuing dreams.

The comic told the story of a character trying to make their way up to the fictional “Land of Dreamers,” but was poisoned by “apples of doubt” along the way. The protagonist, overcome with a sense of self-doubt, loses their friendships and dreams. The story concludes with three characters who restore their friendship with the protagonist and help them overcome their uncertainty. The world of this comic strip set the scene for the collection, with its character designs and messages commenting on doubt, a theme featured in several pieces throughout the collection.

With heroic music playing in the background, the show opened with a strong first look, featuring shades of purple, pink and orange. A kaleidoscopic hoodie, including black illustrations and a combination of colorful knotted loopers — knitted fabrics made of cotton — was paired with white denim shorts and matching patterned Dr. Martens.

One look was particularly eye-catching — a matching looper set with an oversized jacket, which reminded me of silly bands, as loopers were stuffed inside and sewn on the exterior of the jacket. Embedded into shoulder were beads that read “Doubt is poison to a dreamer,” tying back the theme of the comic. The look was paired with white platform Dr. Martens sandals, with “dreamer” written in a bubbly cartoon font across the front of the shoe. After the show, Kelsey Tucker shared that the set was made with muslin and covered in spray insulation foam.

Another model walked down the runway in a full denim set, with colorful loopers incorporated into the denim on one pant leg. On both the neck and underneath the jacket, there were more colorful, crocheted loopers. Partnered with sleek hair and white Dr. Martens, the eccentric style still felt polished and clean.

There was also a model wearing a crisp, cropped, white collared shirt with oversized sleeves. Made with the same looper material, the model strutted in a colorful skirt. The outfit was paired again with white Dr. Martens platform sandals and a briefcase that read, “The Emperor’s Business,” which was another reference to the comic strip. The model had a sleek bun and a light brush of blue eyeshadow on her eyelids and under her eyes that made the look feel wistful. 

Kabuki Starshine, the makeup artist for the show, explained that he wanted to choose looks that fit best with every model’s face and skin tone. 

“I wanted it to be ambiguous,” Starshine said. “The designer said she really liked [the film] ‘Scream,’ and I used expressionism to create a mood of that subject — for it to be mysterious, but also work well with everything.”

Kelsey Tucker recounted the story behind Deviate’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection and her inspiration behind the pieces.

“This specific collection was inspired by doubt and dreams, and those two juxtaposed, and really showing that off through how to overcome that through friendship,” Tucker said.Deviate’s collection was not only a fashion show, but also a display of storytelling. Aspects of the Tucker sisters’ designs — beading, graphic illustrations and loopers — are tied back to their personal history, creating an experience that would make anyone marvel at the sight. 

Contact Gabrielle Kwon at [email protected].