PARIS – Kidill opened Fall/Winter 2024 Paris Fashion Week with a teenager’s punk fantasy. The brand seeks to revive the British punk scene and the ‘70s fashion movement and bring it into the 21st century. Kidill’s “WHATEVER HAPPENED TO PUNK” occurred in the Carrousel du Louvre, a location near Paris’ city center and the prominent Parisian art institution, the Louvre. In contrast with the historical backdrop of Paris, Carrousel du Louvre provided a modern take to present this edgier collection.

Hiroaki Sueyasu, the designer of Kidill’s collection, “WHATEVER HAPPENED TO PUNK,” centers itself around 1978 artwork, Sue Catwoman Dolls, in collaboration with the artist Jamie Reid. The flier for the show and some of the garments on the runway showcased some of Reid’s art pieces. The outfits were chaotic and loud, featuring everything from rips and layers to graffiti and even details that resembled blood and dirt. The eclectic chaos of the outfits paid beautiful homage to the punk aesthetic in a way that would make anyone want to join the punk subculture even if they are far from it. 

Many of the pieces in the collection referred to Vivienne Westwood in the form of plaid prints, boisterous silhouettes, and expressively unapologetic makeup with bold color palettes and patterns. One outfit was entirely in a green and yellow plaid, with lettering that read “Destroy Everything,” accessorized with a spiked choker and silver septum. The model wore matching yellow lipstick and metallic shimmery eyeshadow with bleached eyebrows. Her hair was a bright magenta with a crown of black gelled hair tracks in a nest shape interwoven with her space buns.

The esoteric nature of the outfits were a persistent characteristic throughout the Kidill presentation. One look featured a purple cheetah sweatsuit, paired with metal claws, matching furry ears and a tail. The model wore a bold, metallic eyeshadow that only served to expand on the principle that punk is unapologetically itself.

One particularly emblematic look of the show was an outfit with the Sue Catwoman Dolls t-shirt, paired with a printed Bambi plaid skirt which much resembled a kilt. The accessories included black leather studded bracelets, a choker with metal hardware, a plaid military beret and what first appears to be a military dog tag, but is actually a razor. It was a rather simple look next to the other looks in the show, but was an impressive nod to the challenge of recontextualizing pieces as seen with both the military beret and the dichotomy of the razordog tag.

Sueyasu brought punk design to Japan in 2014 with the launch of his brand. Sueyasu takes inspiration from alternative fashion with elements from a variety of subcultures. The brand is known for its emphasis on self-expression and Sueyasu’s love for punk. Not only did Kidill win the hearts of alternative youth, but also older generations due to the brand’s remarkably iconic nods to the British punk scene. With the brand’s myriad of expressive subcultures and use of ‘70s alternative fashion as inspiration, Sueyasu’s work evokes immense nostalgia among those with a passion for punk styles.

Contact Makayla Brown at [email protected].