Click on image for more looks from Konhoor F/W 2014

Although Koonhor has only been on the scene for three seasons, the brand is quickly gaining recognition for its unassuming audacity and androgynous aesthetics. The duo designers, Catrine Thé and Koon Lim, take their inspiration from female narratives, designing for the empowered, modern woman.

Their collection for Fall/Winter 2014 expressed refined boldness through metallic-coated black blazers and dresses, structured wool flare skirts and buckle accents on not only classic ankle-boots but on belted coats as well. Biker jackets featured strong, stiff cuts with pink metallic-coated collar detailing on a few of the pieces.

Most of Koonhor’s line consisted of black and white looks, carried out through grid-patterned button up shirts, black floral appliqués, and rose-embroidered organza dresses. Occasional accents of color like their army green wool-blend pants and denim flare skirts blended effortlessly with the dark tones of the rest of the collection.

Koonhor’s focus on the feminine mystic was conceptually empowering but was sometimes lost in fabric translation. The lack of color was an expression of maturity and was undoubtedly cohesive, but it took away from the intrigue and curiosity as it appeared overly muted. Koonhor did stick to their brand of poise and subtle sexuality but took no risk—there was no identifiably unique print like their swirling waves of the Spring/Summer 2014 collection or the kaleidoscopic images of Fall/Winter 2012.

However, the sleekness and interesting fabric combinations of leather, wool, denim and silk evoked a sense of strength through its diversity. Such a mixture of textures signifies emerging identity reconstruction of not only the fabrics but of the woman wearer herself.

Hannah Treasure is the deputy features editor. Email her at [email protected].