Click for more looks from koonhor Spring/Summer 2014.

Behind the brick walls of The Line, koonhor’s captivating collection awakened both feminine beauty through chiffon prints and bustier tops, as well as a contrasting theme of a dark confidence in tailored, leather cuts. The color palette consisted of ethereal white, scarlet red, fern green, swirling patterns of both light and navy blue, and metallic black. Sophisticated cuts and angled designs reigned — they voiced an intelligent look in a modern adaptation.

Known in the past for their juxtaposition of masculine and feminine elements, koonhor included their traditional aspects of neutral makeup, boxy fitted dresses and menswear blazers, but a delicate motif not usually incorporated in their collections was present this season. On the inspiration for their new, innocent elements such as flare skirts and glitter details on the black leather pieces, designer Koon Lim said that he and Catrine The, the other half of the koonhor team, had been “particularly intrigued by the movie Stoker, which is about a female character with a childlike image on the outside, but inside she takes on an intimate and haunting transfiguration from adolescence.”

In addition to those pieces, Lim also said that the strikingly abstract print of a girlish face with swirling, wet hair (seen on their collared, drop-waist dresses and matching, thickly layered jackets) was also a nod toward the film. Taken from a scene that particularly stood out to them, Lim conveyed that they “wanted to represent the girl’s inner emotions during her character’s erotic realization.” The models also sported completely wet hair as well; such fluidity made a lasting and clear impression.

Ultimately koonhor displayed women’s empowerment, as the designers said the ideal woman who would wear their fashions would be “strong, disciplined, and knowing [of] what she wants.” The masculinity of the clothing shapes adorned with zippers as well as the unified presentation of black leather heels and formatted sunglasses on the models certainly personified that strength they idolize. Just as the power they drew upon from the young woman in Stoker’s ability to undergo change, koonhor continues to reinvent themselves while holding onto their core force of substance and determination — an exciting metamorphosis to witness as the line continues to develop.

Hannah Treasure is a contributing writer. Email her at [email protected].