The bright, minimalist décor of Studio 450 was the perfect atmosphere for the debut of Nandi Madida’s 2018 Colour collection. Firey reds, oranges and whites blazed down the runway, daring the audience to look closer. But the designs were as subtle as the color palette — Madida expertly subverted expectations by taking well-known features of garments and turning them up to 100. A huge ruffle accent on a wrap dress. A blazer with thin lengths of fabric looping from collar to sleeve. A Peter Pan collar widened into shoulder pads (and tied with a metallic bow, for good measure).

Madida is a powerhouse. Before diving headfirst into high fashion, she made a name for herself as a TV presenter, actress and singer-songwriter. She is an outspoken advocate for plus-size women and women of color, and made a point to hire a diverse spectrum of models for her Colour campaigns. The first iteration of the Colour collection in 2016 reflected this passionate artistry — Madida went wild with rainbow hues, and became known for her bold patterns, avant garde makeup, and delicate skirts.

Colour 2018 feels like the older sibling of this past collection. Consisting mostly of reimagined pantsuits, this collection seemed intent on spicing up the image of the professional woman. Even the dresses incorporated peacoat buttons and sharp blazer collars. The palette was warm and bright, but stuck to a strict color scheme. The models wore toned-down dark lipstick and searing white-winged eyeliner. Though definitely not as flashy as Madida’s past work, the Colour collection radiates power, energy and fire.

Email Nina Donoghue at [email protected].