EENK presented its 2023 Fall/Winter collection amidst the simple layout of La Salle Wagram, a historic auditorium. A two-piece, inflatable archway — the work of Korean sculptor Osang Gwon — stood in the center of the room. The minimal background placed the focus on the layered, patterned looks of designer Lee Hyemee’s newest collection. 

Since its launch in 2015, EENK has concentrated its work on “The Letter Project,” in which the brand’s seasonal collections follow an alphabetical and typically metaphorical theme. Past collections included “N for Novelist” and “W for Wild Wild West.” For the Fall/Winter 2023 collection, Hyemee presented “X for the letter X,” a representation of the unknown and undefined. The theme was evident from the beginning, as models traversed the floor in an X formation, crossing paths in the center of Gwon’s installation. 

The line’s 39 workwear-inspired looks featured neutral colors and heavy layers of button-down shirts, full-length coats and knitted fabrics for the fall and winter seasons. 

“It was refreshing to see a small brand put in so much effort,” said show attendee Naela LouAfi of DUO Model Management. “It was really original. There were lots of unique pieces that you actually want to buy.”

One model showcased an oversized, structured blazer paired with a sleek black top and loose-fitting skirt. It was an overall polished look, playing into the theme of the unknown and unidentifiable, and the layers were indistinguishable at first glance. Similarly, another model donned a multi-textured look consisting of a floor-length leather jacket, quilted, loose-fitting pants and a woolen knit top. 

In addition to a host of textured jackets and patterned blazers, the show featured several eye-catching outerwear pieces, including a floor-length faux fur coat and a quilted beige jacket.  

EENK sought to breach the boundaries of fashion with its most recent collection though it landed slightly short of the groundbreaking obscurity indicated by the show’s theme. Although the concept did not completely live up to its originality, each piece featured was still unique and creative in its own right. The line may not have transcended the unknown but it did present a precisely curated collection of distinctive seasonal staples.

Contact Sydney Barragan at [email protected].