Yuna Yang’s Fall/Winter 2016 show displayed an evolution of the label, typically known for its soft, feminine look. The collection, entitled “No Borders,” used heavier wool and silks as well as simpler prints when compared with the abundant plaids of Yang’s previous winter collection. The edgier look was fitting, as the collection was modeled after deconstructed military uniforms in order to challenge remaining divisions between people of varying religions and races.

When asked about the “No Borders” theme, Yang said, “Because I grew up in South Korea, a country that still remains divided after the Cold War, I’ve always been thinking about borders and they became my inspiration.”

Yang’s important, deeply-rooted inspiration was evident through the collection. The elegant looks were beautifully tailored and highly embellished. Several models wore crystal-encrusted earmuffs over sleek ponytails or large sparkly brooches which played nicely off the room’s chandeliers and the ‘snow’ dusting the runway. One model even sported rhinestones on her cheeks. A pair of white, high heeled sandals embellished with feathers was paired with a hand-embroidered, textured shift dress and presented alongside Yang’s signature embellished slip-on sneakers.

“My collections are known as really feminine and soft feeling but I like to make them look comfortable with the shoes. It keeps things interesting,” Yang said of this striking combination.

The true standouts of the collection were the coats. One of the first looks was a memorable black cape coat with gold lace detailing on the sleeves. Yang’s long, cream and mint color-blocked bomber jacket, which included gold details, also stunned.

Yang said her collection was for “function and beauty and hope,” and it certainly showed. The impressive collection reflected the young designer’s maturity and was her strongest season to date.

Email Taylor Nicole Rogers at [email protected].