Brazilian designer Patricia Bonaldi took her audience back in time to the glitz and glamour of the ’60s in her brand PatBO’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection at the Surrogate’s Courthouse. Awash with ambient mood lighting, the venue radiated a seductive aura, setting the scene for the upcoming enchantment of Bonaldi’s designs.

The show began with a simple and elegant white and black gown that hailed back to Bonaldi’s start in evening gowns, priming the audience for the panache scene to follow. Adorned with creamy white pearls inspired by Jackie Kennedy’s signature neckline, the gown was modernized with narrow, golden-rung slits that lined the model’s waist. A series of more black and white pieces trailed the first with one male model donning Bonaldi’s signature tassels on an open blazer paired with flowing bell bottoms and looking as if he waltzed straight out of a ’70s disco nightclub. Although elegant, I began to wonder — where were the iconic bold colors Bonaldi is known for?

My question was soon answered by a singular fuchsia mini dress encrusted in sparkling beadwork. It immediately brought to mind Marilyn Monroe’s iconic look in the 1953 film “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes,” yet maintaining PatBO’s trademark elements — intricate embroidery, flattering waist cut-outs and brilliant hues. The piece told the audience that despite Bonaldi’s explosive success in the past few years and her passion for experimentation, her signature authenticity was here to stay.

“What inspires her mostly is making everyone from every culture — every woman that wears Patricia — feel beautiful,” said designer and close friend of Bonaldi, Paola Mantegazza. “She wants to give everyone this feeling. And not every brand can do that.”

The dress perfectly segued the show into a series of feminine, Barbie-pink looks, reaffirming Bonaldi’s prioritization of female empowerment in the fashion and artisanal industries. The boldness of the fuchsia palette contrasted with edgy, black fringe bandeaus, a noir one-piece swimsuit boasting a large white flower and a gray denim jacket littered with dark rhinestones. In an interruption to the classy simplicity that began the show, a sparkling aqua-blue long sleeve and miniskirt set swaying with long glitzy tassels graced the runway.

Thus began Bonaldi’s final series of looks, a synthesis of the prior two-toned ones with PatBO’s Brazilian tropical flare and Bonaldi’s couture roots. Ocean blues, palm tree greens, flamingo pinks and lavender purples painted the floor-length gowns and swimsuit-reminiscent tops like a rainbow after a tropical storm.

“I never had the courage to wear something so sensual as her clothes until I met her,” Mantegazza said. “She convinced me that I could feel young and tropical and beautiful and light and all that. She sees colors in everyone.”

The audience lucky enough to witness Bonaldi’s creations live consisted of influencers like TikToker Olivia Ponton, singers Kelsea Ballerini and Ashe, and models Flaviana Matata and Madeleine White.  

“I loved all the looks but I think my favorite was the last pink sparkly one,” said influencer Ellie Thumann. “It was so beautiful and every single look was something that I would be so honored to wear.”

PatBO’s SS23 line blew everyone’s expectations out of the water. In a singular, career-defining collection, Bonaldi proved to the fashion world that she is more than capable of innovating modern designs that take inspiration from the past, all while maintaining her signature Brazilian flare and distinctive sense of style.

Contact Sofi Cisneros at [email protected].