Dialogues between African culture and transformation took center stage at Chuks Collins’ New York Fashion Week presentation Monday afternoon. The collection, “Ancestral Futures,” showcased cultural storytelling with a representation of how ancestral wisdom shapes our vision for the future. 

A stage of models posing as mannequins greeted guests as they entered the venue, which was located just north of Union Square. In front of a backdrop of brown curtains, there were frames displaying a portrait of a woman with tribal marks. Guests could also find a full-length cardboard display of Collins’ sketches and designs: a behind-the-scenes look into how he brought the collection to life. 

Compared to Collins’ previous, more colorful works, this collection embraces earthier tones — a nod to his eco-friendly production, as the collection upcycled 20-40% of fabrics from the previous season. Collins first created this collection as he was going through chemotherapy, which inspired him to craft a show that paid homage to his past and his heritage. 

The experiential presentation lasted around 10 minutes, with models walking through the center of the room, positioning themselves along the open areas and brown drapes. The first few looks showcased timeless tailoring in brown, chocolate and off-white creamy palettes, with outfits either two-toned or fully monochrome.

Collins’ intricate stitching decorates most of the pieces, either situated on the front of the garment, hanging from the chest or draping subtly from the shoulders. The stitching was inspired by tribal marks, which Collins used to represent human scars and themes of reinvention. 

“This is the process of making a garment,” Collins said. “You have to use these scars, you have to take the nail to stitch it together for it to become a garment.”

The collection also featured more modern textures and hues, as models wore everything from full black suits and slim dresses to a satin burgundy pleated dress with a corset and squared heeled boots. The teal men’s suits and teal chiffon skirts, paired with a sweater in a darker shade, alluded to jewels found across the African continent. Collins said that the colors in his designs represented a cultural personification of nature, inspired by his African ancestry.

As the presentation came to an end, models took their positions across the space as guests observed each design individually. Some models bore circular markings across their faces, resembling the drawn portrait of a woman with tribal marks still hanging in the background. Some carried bags from Collins’ upcoming collection, varying from dull and glossy leather to suede fabrics, each matching either the garments’ color or stitching pattern.

Serving as both a rebirth of his past and a representation of his future, Collins’ collection shines as a depiction of both his identity and worldview. In a celebration of his African roots blended with Western culture, Collins presented garments that showcase his artistic process and the stories behind the designs, blending memory and innovation. He translated how fashion can portray our past insecurities and identities while representing our vision of the future.

“So this collection, as always with my collections, is all about the marriage of who I am as a person and what my brand stands for,” Collins said.