At the pas de calais Fall/Winter 2015 presentation, mannequins suspended from the ceiling filled the room in front of a projection of clouds. A fog machine softened the light and enhanced the ethereal vibe. Every so often a mannequin swayed or turned slightly, displaying their custom forms.
Inspired by a trip to Pas-de-Calais and clouds in general, designer Yukari Suda’s newest collection embodied the space between the sky and the earth, emphasizing soft silhouettes, attention to detail and texturizing layers. Featuring predominately outerwear, the collection’s coats and dresses highlighted the waist with soft shapes, softly rolled collars and delicate edges.
The textiles are the most beautiful part of the presentation. The lightweight fabrics display a soft warmth in tones of grey, blue, green, purple and an array of beige, oat and tan. Wool and angora pieces hung near an un-dyed, pure cashmere coat and a rabbit fur coat. Though some of the pieces appeared to have been ruched or puckered, it was actually a natural effect that came from boiling a blend of wool, rayon and linen. Subtly striped pieces echoed the lining of a coat, and images of subtle clouds appeared in several pieces. The attention to fabric detail was emphasized by a giant loom with an woven swath suspended from the ceiling as yarn hung down.
Each piece was unique, but fit into the same captivating aesthetic. The clothes were almost too soft and pure for New York, but in their simple beauty were an airy escape from the usual dark pieces that are most popular on NYC streets.
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